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Engine runs rough in left hand turns only?

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Fautz Avatar
Fautz John Fautz
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
A couple questions please;

# 1
Is there any reason my 1967 A.H. 3000 MK lll flutters (misses) when turning left under acceleration but not if I turn right? After driving about five minutes it clears up and runs fine. Fuel filters, float, electric fuel pump & filter, etc.? What's your diagnoses?
I'm sure this must have happened to some one else? I'm also sure that this problem is easily diagnosed by anyone with more experience than me. I'm kind'a rusty at this.

#2
My O.D. stopped working the last time I took a semi-long drive. It has worked a few times since but it's usually in-op. I haven't checked the fluid level yet but have heard that that can cause problems with an O.D.? Any suggestions as to where I should start in diagnosing the problem? Any input will be extremely appreciated.

Thank You.

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rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, California, USA   USA
John,
Never heard of that one before.

As far as the overdrive I'd start with the electrical as it is the simplest.
Turn the key to the on position, don't start the car.
Turn the OD switch to the overdrive position and then put the transmission into 3rd or fourth. You should hear a click, overdrive solenoid picking up.
If no click push the gear lever to the right to remove any play. If you now hear a click then one of two things is wrong.
Either the bushing on the end of the gear shift in the transmission is worn and causing excessive play so the 3rd and 4th gear position switch isn't picking up or the switch itself is going bad.
I just went through the same thing about 3 months ago. Replaced the switch and gear lever bushing and everything has been fine ever since.
After replacing the bushing I still had the same trouble and it turned out the switch was worn out. These overdrives are pretty trouble free and it is usually the simple things that cause the problems.
"Remember", always ,always start with the basic things first!!!!!!
Pete

whealan Avatar
whealan Tony W
Norfolk, UK   GBR
John

I would personally start with the float levels (with brass floats a 7/16" drill bit should just fit between the curve of the lever and the lid of the carburettor when it is held upside down and the needle valve is closed. If not, bend the curved part not the flat bit which must remain flat and level when the valve is closed. Sometimes the little hinges on the lever have got loose too and you can bend these carefully to get rid of most of the play while still keeping full travel. While you're there also check that the floats are floating, clean petrol is coming out of the supply and that your needle valves aren't sticking (the new brass replacements are notorious for this).

NB To get the rear carb lid off it helps to loosen or remove the choke control securing plate from the back of the aircleaner. Bear in mind that if (when) you drop the nut or washers it will join the all the others in a hole in the frame's nether regions! I recovered four the other day when a bit of corrosion was repaired.

Regards

Tony

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