AHExp

The 3000 Forum

Oil leaking at crankshaft pulley

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

pkoot Avatar
pkoot Peter K
Alkmaar, NH, Netherlands   NLD
There is some oil leaking at the crankshaft pulley from my BJ8. So I need to replace the oil seal at the timing cover. But can I remove the pulley with the engine in the car? It seems to me that there is very little space to work with to get the pulley off.

Peter



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-09-13 06:58 AM by pkoot.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
NaDaDawgRacer John Jones
Waxhaw, NC, USA   USA
Engine mounts will have to be unbolted and the front of the engine lifted high enough for the harmonic balencer to clear up he v shaped cross member.
John

San Jose, California, USA   USA
Disconnect the throttle linkage at the carbs lest you bend it. Don't try to lift at the pan, unless you put a large wooden platform under it (I used a 2 x 4 and had a nice indentation to show for it). Easiest to unbolt the mounts at the chassis (if you have the right size, longer bolts you can put them in to make realignment easier). Getting the big nut off the balancer can be a beeyatch; IIRC it's 1&11/16" (but not sure). You'll need at least a big breaker bar and some way to keep the crankshaft from turning. If it hasn't been done before, consider getting the balancer overhauled (I've seen what happens when they delaminate). Damper Dudes did a good job for me, and they'll sleeve the collar where the seal rides if if needs it (but I see you're in The Netherlands, so hopefully there's someone there who does this). When you reinstall the timing cover make sure the new seal is centered before you pull the bolts down (else you be repeating this exercise in the not-too-distant future).

Bob

Edit: Almost forgot; you have to undo the OD<->chassis (fan saver) tie rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-09-13 10:35 PM by Bob Spidell.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, California, USA   USA
Radiator also needs to be removed.

pkoot Avatar
pkoot Peter K
Alkmaar, NH, Netherlands   NLD
Thanks all for your answers. A lot of work for such a little seal ... and this seal is just 2 years old (complete engine overhaul).

But do I need to unscrew something at the gearbox? Isn't it fixed at the chassis?

Peter



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-09-14 03:29 AM by pkoot.

SimonLachlan Avatar
SimonLachlan Simon Lachlan
Bradninch, Devon, UK, UK   GBR
1962 Austin-Healey 3000 "The Old Banger"
Hi,
Yes, you need to slacken off or undo the mountings at the gearbox end as well as those on the engine. See the attached, taken from my BMC Parts Book, a useful item. You can see that I was probably doing something similar to you at some stage and probably struggled until I found that page. Why the gearbox mountings are shown on the same page as the engine mountings is another topic. May seem logical in retrospect?
It's all a bit of a pain, but it beats taking the engine out.
The one underneath the gearbox, which controls forwards movement - or rather stops it - is something to keep an eye on. If that goes west, your fan could start eating your radiator.
Simon
Have fun!


Attachments:
Page from BMC Service Parts List (with my old notes).pdf    84.2 KB

San Jose, California, USA   USA
I did it without removing the gearbox mounts. They are flexible, and you're only tilting the engine/gearbox a few degrees.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
pkoot Avatar
pkoot Peter K
Alkmaar, NH, Netherlands   NLD
I'll give it a try. It will save a lot of work.

Peter

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, New York, USA   USA
Hi Pete,

You may be in for more of a project then it looks.

I had a problem with the Churchill Key holding my front crankshaft pulley from spinning on the crank.

The key had started wobbling in the groove on the crankshaft causing the pulley to rock back and forth, side to side, not front to back.
Besides effecting setting the timing it was annoying and incorrect so I fixed it "in situ".

I raised the front of the engine as far as I could until the valve cover touched the firewall and as you can see in the photos
there was no way that pulley was coming off with the engine in the car.

I didn't loosen the gearbox mounts at the rear but I kept the front mounts centered on their mounting points by inserting a longer bolt.

You still have to contend with the cylinder head hitting the firewall.

Not sure if this is much help but it may give you some insight into your dilemma.

All the best,
Peter Carbone

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
DSCN1855.JPG    63.6 KB
DSCN1855.JPG

DSCN1871.JPG    55.7 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
pkoot Avatar
pkoot Peter K
Alkmaar, NH, Netherlands   NLD
Well, I've got something to do in the winter. Thanks all.

Peter

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links