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Rumplestilstskin ...Time to wake! 1954 100-4

Moss Motors
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Luegolover Avatar
Luegolover Steve L
London, London, UK   GBR
Very interesting post, thank you. You are doing remarkably well with the car.

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NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 195544 by Luegolover Very interesting post, thank you. You are doing remarkably well with the car.

Thank you sir! Nice to know that people are reading along. I am helping someone get this car back on the road I like to run a build thread so that the owner can follow along with the project. Also gives him an idea of where the part $$$ goes!

Pete

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
Got the turn signals working. After doing some diagnostics with a multi-meter. I took the flasher unit out and beat it on the benchtop. Worked a charm after that.

Aslo tested the fuel level sender and gauge. Seems to work when I ground the wire at the tank, so I will call that good.

Pretty much concludes the electrical other than ignition. THAT is giving me a few eyebrow raises.

So what is left before this becomes self propelled again?
1- need to figure out what the coupling is between the new fuel tank and the fuel line. It is NOT correct and NOT anything that I have heard about. I asked MOSS who sold me the tank, but their answer was either incomplete, not understood, or wrong. Going to pull the tank and take it to a hydraulic specialist tomorrow.

No spark. This one is kind of weird. Why are there two wires on the coil ignition side? I get continuity to ground from the negative ( keys side) of the coil even with the ground coil wire to the distributor disconnected. Methinks the coil is pooched.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-09 06:44 PM by NOHOME.

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NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
Got spark at the plugs and finished the fuel delivery system last night by making a new line from the tank to the pump.

Soooooooooooo close!

The poor pump just seems to have no push. It will get fuel to the front of the line and fill the filter, but wont push it up into the carbs. I guess 23 years on the sidelines was too much to ask for. Will dig into the spares pile tonight and see what I might have laying around.

Of course I could not let it go at that....Using my bespoke fuel injection technology ( a 50 cc syringe full of fuel) the engine fired right up, ran for a few seconds, and made no bad noises.

Pete

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
It was not the fuel pump.

After a bit of thought, and because I am a pessimist when it comes to SU carbs, I thought I should pull the lid off the floatbowls of the newly rebuilt carbs.

Front lid:



Rear lid:



Anyone see the issue?

Moral of the story is "When troubleshooting "new" just means "Never worked" so don't discount it as the fault.

Car runs now. Hope to go for a spin tomorrow.

Pete

Michael S Avatar
Michael S Michael Salter
Dwight, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Diagnosis BEFORE repair



Michael Salter
Technical Chairman (Big Healeys)
Austin Healey Concours Committee

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 195709 by Michael S Diagnosis BEFORE repair

????

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Michael S Avatar
Michael S Michael Salter
Dwight, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Sorry, should have read the thread.. I thought you had changed the pump.



Michael Salter
Technical Chairman (Big Healeys)
Austin Healey Concours Committee



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-13 09:47 AM by Michael S.

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 195712 by Michael S Sorry, should have read the thread.. I thought you had changed the pump.

I DID dig spare out of the spares pilegrinning smiley

Really, swapping the pump would have just let me to the same conclusion just a step later. What I was not expecting from the non-original ( and VERY noisy) pump on this car is that it would shut-off when it reached a given pressure. I mistook the shut-off with pump failure.

It was more expedient to crack the banjo fitting at the bowl and at that point I saw there was fuel, so I kept digging towards the carbs. Freshly rebuilt carbs tend to blind me to looking for problems in that direction!

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Michael S Avatar
Michael S Michael Salter
Dwight, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Reminds me of one of the most perplexing problems i encountered, about 40 years ago, with a pair of HD8s after they had been rebuilt by the local "expert".
After fitting them the engine started and ran well but backfired through the carbs when I opened the throttle then stopped and would not restart.
Took me a dogs age to figure out that said "expert" had failed to tighten the needle locking screws and BOTH needles had dropped out and lodged into their jets... live and learn I guess.



Michael Salter
Technical Chairman (Big Healeys)
Austin Healey Concours Committee

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
Apologies for the lousy video quality. The trees moving around in the wind mess with the phones video focus. The short of it is that she cruised around the block a few times and no major issues were spotted. Still a bit of fine tuning to do, but looking good.


Luegolover Avatar
Luegolover Steve L
London, London, UK   GBR
Looking good indeed. Well done.

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
Small step back. After a test drive, oil was spotted weeping from the head-to-block interface about where the engine serial # is located.

This then happened:



And there is your problem: ( you should not be able to see light under the straightedge)



Block checked out fine. Valves were pulled out and look good. Will give them a quick lap to clean up the faces.

Pete

Craig Clifton Avatar
Martinez, Ca, USA   USA
Pete, oil seepage in that area is a problem even with a perfectly flat head and block deck. Oddly, the nearby oil hole (closest one to number tag) is just a gravity feed to lube the distributor. I've always been tempted to add an o-ring to the head gasket at that location. Pressure up to head is between 3 and 4 on the tappet side.
While a framing square is a OK for rough checking for flat, we have always used ground bars or ground rods for that purpose.
Might consider lightly chamfering the top of each head stud hole while they are out.

NOHOME P P
O, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 195898 by Craig Clifton Pete, oil seepage in that area is a problem even with a perfectly flat head and block deck. Oddly, the nearby oil hole (closest one to number tag) is just a gravity feed to lube the distributor. I've always been tempted to add an o-ring to the head gasket at that location. Pressure up to head is between 3 and 4 on the tappet side.
While a framing square is a OK for rough checking for flat, we have always used ground bars or ground rods for that purpose.
Might consider lightly chamfering the top of each head stud hole while they are out.

Craig:

Regardless of how accurate the straightedge was, the machine shop will remove the minimum required to make her flat.I do have a known-flat surface that tells me the rule was pretty straight so I have some degree of confidence that the block is flat.

That is interesting about them all seeping at this point. I will admit to the temptation to leave it alone as it was not a lot of leakage, and during an hour long drive did not show up as an issue other than a dribble down the side of the block. The final straw was when it blew an actual bubble at me and I declared that as a final straw!

That said, I am now concerned that if there is any seepage after the head is planed, the owner not going to be happy. I wont be either! I have a copper spray made for head gaskets that I have used in the past, might give it a try.

And you are absolutely correct in that all of the threads in the block need to be chamfered.

Pete

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