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The 100-Six Forum

What did you do with your 100-Six today?

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Did you repair or replace some worn out parts?
Add a new accessory?
Take it out for a drive on twisty back roads?

What did YOU do with your Austin-Healey 100-Six today?

Post your update below......




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johnbn6 Avatar
johnbn6 john nieuwenhuizen
kerkrade, limburg, Netherlands   NLD
Today I changed the damper springs and needles in the HD6 carbs as have got sets of blue, red and yellow springs to choose from. I also played around with the advance rate of the distributor. My BN6 is modified so the settings are trial and error. Just got back from a pleasant test drive.

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Sounds like a good excuse for a test drive!

Do you use an AFR gauge for tuning or rely on seat-of-the-pants?

Skye



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johnbn6 Avatar
johnbn6 john nieuwenhuizen
kerkrade, limburg, Netherlands   NLD
Both. I use an AFR recording device with exhaust clamp, and in addition the seat-of-the-pants 'tuning'. The car just feels different when I use lighter damper springs. I've had her dynonometer tested but I still like to fiddel around with the settings.

gerard0297 Gerard van Pelt
Rijsenhout, Netherlands   NLD
I installed my engine, which is a slightly tuned MKII engine with a 300 degree camshaft, forged pistons and a aluminium cyl head with roller rockers. fitted with a MKII centre shift gearbox and two HD8 carb's
We took the engine out because a valve broke and dammaged the piston. I am also respainting the car into it's original colour (black) and hope to have it back on the road within the next six weeks"

As you can see from the pic's I removed the doorhandles and modified the doors, the handles are useless anyway and only make it easier for thieves to take stuff from the car. The car looks much cleaner now, just like the 100/4.

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RRP57AH100 Avatar
RRP57AH100 Ray Peebles
Sylvania, Ohio, USA   USA
Worked on the frame repair. Have been patching in good metal to replace the rusted areas. It's going well but slow progress. I measure an area on the frame that needs to be replaced and cut a piece of new 16ga sheet steel. Have some pieces pre-bent at 90 deg if the area includes a top and side. Once the filler piece is cut I then trace the outline to the frame area and cut inside the outline marks. Touch up grinding to make the final fit and hold in place with magnets and clamps until I can weld enough areas ( seams) to hold all sides and critical spots in place. I'm getting fairly good at the weld process but grind to finish the work.

RRP57AH100 Avatar
RRP57AH100 Ray Peebles
Sylvania, Ohio, USA   USA
Update on photos for the patch process


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adrian1962 Avatar
adrian1962 Adrian Anderson
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
I took my car out for a run on a chilly night to be part of a car run that raises money for charity.
Great night with a mixture of great cars all you need is to have chrome bumpers to attend


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I3OOOI Avatar
I3OOOI Ron Gill
Franklin, Auckland, New Zealand   NZL
HI Adrian

I am about to get myothe Healey3000 restoration underway in the new year as I have a 1962 BT7 which came to New Zealand in parts in 1995 and has been stripped floors, rust, and Sills removed then dip stripped and primed by the previous owner in NZ but I have to do it all again now as rust spots are coming through the primer.

I have a question for the other members out there when replacing the Sill's, Floor Pan's, Chassis Outrigger's are you better to pre stress and hold the Chassis down onto a Jig or frame?

Before you start to replace any structural panels so as replicate the weight of the engine and gearbox which is a huge weight that will be placed into the car after rebuild and may cause the door fitment to be out of line.

Any feedback would be great as I want to do it right first time and have a good door fit.

Ron

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jmmarch Avatar
jmmarch Silver Member Mike March
Winchester, Virginia, USA   USA
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six
1976 MG Midget 1500 ~ For Sale ! ~
Started the car for the first time since receiving it (finicky ignition switch). Took it for a spin. winking smiley

jmmarch Avatar
jmmarch Silver Member Mike March
Winchester, Virginia, USA   USA
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six
1976 MG Midget 1500 ~ For Sale ! ~
Replaced the starter button with a generic push button. Car starts very time now. winking smiley
Went to DMV, registered the car, picked up the temp tags and ordered the antique tags.

Looking forward to sunshine on Sunday and a long test drive.

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jmmarch Avatar
jmmarch Silver Member Mike March
Winchester, Virginia, USA   USA
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six
1976 MG Midget 1500 ~ For Sale ! ~
Went for a nice drive in the sunshine (43 degrees). First time I had used the overdrive...very cool.
RPM dropped to 2100 at 50 MPH. Next issue: gas gauge not giving an accurate reading.
I guess I'll have to rely on the trip odometer and my ability to do arithmetic in my head.


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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Looks great, Mike! Good to hear you're getting some good weather in VA.
Agreed about the overdrive, it's really nice on today's roads.



Webmaster, The Austin-Healey Experience


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I3OOOI Avatar
I3OOOI Ron Gill
Franklin, Auckland, New Zealand   NZL
We had my 1960 BT7 out for the New Zealand Northern Region Xmas get together a couple of weeks ago and car ran great on the way North but on the way home the same fuel delivery problem I have been having reared it head again so out came the tank and I have fitted a 25 Micron filter from a Airless Spray Gun over the pick up tube to eliminate any more fuel pipe blockages,
I also replaced the delivery pipe from the tank to fuel pump as the one on had crimped bends, tested car and all seems great with the fuel system now fingers crossed it solved the issues I was having.

Whilst out testing fuel issue I noticed the brake /Clutch fluid level low and clutch not releasing fully to engage gears so clutch Slave Cyl or flex pipe is leaking so it is removed and awaiting new seals and hose as I dont want to do this in the near future again as its a pig of a job to get to the top slave Cyl mount bolt out or even get a spanner on to the bolt. I will make a modification to a old socket to re tighten the bold when replacing the slave cylinder as its so close to the chassis a normal 1/4 drive socket wrench or ring spanner will not fit.

I suppose this is one of the problems with cars which have done little milage with previous owners and when you start to put a few miles on the clock they show up the weaknesses of decaying seals and hoses all Par for the course I prefer to do it once but do it right as roadside repairs are not on my fovorite pastime list.

Also as the car is on the hoist I will take the opportunity to make a complete new exhaust system for my other car and for this one as the old shall I call it a silencer box! is straight through.

I am sure it would drive my passenger and I mad on the April 2015 NZ International Rally to Nelson and the South Island if nothing is done to surpress the drone of the engine when the hood is up for extended period as we are planning on doing 1500 miles or more over the 12 days touring the fantastic roads in the Southern region and back to Auckland.

Ron

jmmarch Avatar
jmmarch Silver Member Mike March
Winchester, Virginia, USA   USA
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six
1976 MG Midget 1500 ~ For Sale ! ~
Ordered 3mm polycabonate sheet to fabricate new windows for the side curtains.
The aluminum looks pretty rough...thinking about engine turning both sides.

Still looking for the rubber seals for the curtains.

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