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Basket Case 1960 Bugeye with Rust... Hell no.

Moss Motors
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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
Live in Tucson AZ and you'd think I would not work on cars with rust.

Well, guess what. I just found this 1960 car in a back yard that had been sitting since 1973 and uncovered.

Needless to say this one scares me to heck... but wife loved the look of the little car and said.. "Save that baby" from the crusher.

I've discovered a lot since getting the car for FREE and how much it will cost to restore on this one. Holy Lucas Batman!

After much consternation... it looks like I'll settle for a "sympathetic restoration" - opposed to a full rotisserie with OEM parts.

The motor was .40 over already and the Smooth Case was frozen with rust. I found a good, running 1098 and Rib Case to use.

One question: What is the paint code "FORMULA" for Old English White?

I've checked all the paint stores and they give me the "too old" comment and "that was probably Lacquer back in the day".

So, anyone who has this formula that I can translate to my paint store.... I would appreciate it.

OLD English White WT-3 2379 Dupont 8207 Ditzler 8177 are numbers I've been researching.

One shop asked for a sample to scan and we can make up some new paint.

Thanks in advance... and I'm going to ask a lot more questions.

George

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pixelsmithusa Avatar
Porsche "Ivory Elfenbein" is supposed to be a dead match.
OEM Code 132L132
Brand Code 81137

You can have a touch-up sample made and see what you think.



Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
Thanks.. Will run that number tomorrow.

BG

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63mechanic Avatar
63mechanic Ted S
Langley, Bc, Canada   CAN
More pictures George !!!!!
Cheers

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
I had to downsize to smaller file to post these. Lots more pictures to come after I go thru them.

Fabricated a working platform to get the car stripped of everything and then blasted.

The entire area around the 1/4 elips is toast with rust. Had to mortgage the house to buy some metal parts from Moss etc.

We're replacing spring plates and all the structures around them. I've managed to put together two sets of springs from about 4 sets of rusty one.

A good friend is taking care of the heavy work on the metal fix in his shop.

Generally, I build Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger cars, but this one seemed easy enough. Lesson is being learned.

Big George


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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Hi. Buy your parts from suppliers in the UK like AH Spares, A Head for Healeys, Cape International
Wheeler & Davis body parts suppliers. Leacy, Ashley Hinton, Moss, Holden British Motor Heritage etc.
The £ is down around 20% against the US$. Some repo body parts not very good. Ashley Hinton
good for some strange "bits" ie all the heater stuff and switches. The rear springs. Now if you
can get hold of good original 1/4 elliptics use them The repo ones have 10 leaves and it has been
known in the UK for restored bugeyes fitted with "new" springs to get 2 - 3 bags of cement in the
boot for a few weeks to settle them down!

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
How about Frogeye Spares? I've inquired and they seem ready to help. Concerned about shipping mostly.

Thanks for the input.

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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Hi Big George. Bet its warm in Tucson. I am in Glasgow Scotland and its freezing. They pour salt
on the roads every year and that rusts car bodies like crazy! Frogeye Spares took over Wheeler & Davis
when Brian Wheeler retired. I got my panels and body work stuff from brian wheeler. Was able to buy
"chunks" of sub assemblies like the complete rear panels where the springs fit. If Frogeye Spares are
still as good requality and fit then they are fine. I meet Brian Wheeler a few times -he supplied Moss
with panels-that was ten - twelve years ago. Re Ashley Hinton he has original tooling for heater parts
ie Smith Heaters. plus the brass water tap. Speedograph Richfield took over the cables, gauges
business of Smiths Industriies-they made the speedo and rev counter cables on the bugeye.
Also they refurbish gauges. With the £ down 20% viz the US$ it is probably cheaper to buy
from UK. Worthwhile looking up Ashley Hinton/ Speedograph Richfield/ Cape Healeys
Head for Healeys, AH Spares, Frogeye Spares/Holden (expensive)/Moss, Leacy (often have
odd fittings) British Motor Heritage, A company Rimmer are having a sale British Leyland brake
parts-worth looking up, The MG Owners Club are the only people that supply proper front
wheel bearings.Try and keep 15 leaf springs, RB106/2 voltage regulator, the current "Lucas"
brand brake light switches are very bad. I used a VW genuine Beetle part modified from metric
to unf. Hope this helps

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
looks like early Porsches up until '88 had that color available and they simply referred to it as Ivory. Here's a link to a whole lot of different Porsches painted that color.

Porsche "Ivory Elfenbein" is supposed to be a dead match.
OEM Code 132L132
Brand Code 81137
Pictures
https://www.google.com/search?q=Ivory+1966+Porsche&tbm=isch&gws_rd=ssl

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
Good stuff there. Will make decision soon on the actual color.

Thanks... more pics up this afternoon as soon as I figure how to get them off my S7.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
Here are some more... note the damage caused by someone who wanted to put in a different gear box.

Found another one and it's ready to be welded in. It's sitting on the floor to the left of the hoist.

Good side of the elip brackets. The driver side is way worse.

Hillbilly Rotisserie ... Just kidding. We'll have it on a regular jig soon.

Metal work on quarters and other areas of need. Plenty of need.

Dressing up a good running 1098 getting it ready for reinstall with Rib Case.

@ PIXLESMITH. Found the 1982 Porsche color on page 14 of this site. Great reference info.

http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2017-03-13 09:51 PM by BigGeorge67.


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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Are you using a mechanical fuel pump or electric?

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
More than likely mechanical. I can't find a rebuild kit and the diaphram costs almost as much as a new pump... about $50.00 US.

Why? Do you recommend I step away from the mechanical for a reason?

BG

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
The 1098cc engines had SU electric fuel pumps as used on the morris minor. The original SU
electric pumps have carbon brush points which are prone to wear and are unreliable. In the
UK you can buy solid state printed circuit board SU fuel pumps around £60= $80 or so.
The mechanical ones are more reliable. Mine came from MOSS and I think they are used
on engines found in boats. The diaphrams in the UK are rather old and often perished.
Rebuild kits were available as these mechanical pumps were used widely in the UK
on agricultural machinery. AC Y10 if memory serves me was the type of fuel pump.
Hope this helps. We had a 2 year old 948cc morris traveller (woody) and on a journey
from Glasgow to south of England 500 + miles the SU fuel pump stopped working
so every few miles up with the bonnet and a good "tap" with a small mallet got us
going again until I found a BMC garage. Every BMC garage/dealer had them over the counter.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, ARIZONA, USA   USA
Probably going to get the mechanical one tomorrow from Moss.

I tore my generator apart and cleaned it up... and now having problems reassembling it after pressing in new bearings.

The long screws appear to be not 1/4"- 28, but Metric. Is that right? I tried several taps to clean up the threads and none worked.

Looks like I'll be looking for a Tachno Drive unit and hear the one from Moss is not so good.

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