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Front Wire Harness Rout for BE Front Hinged Bonnet

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Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
I am looking for wisdom and or guidance one harness routing on a 60 BE front pinned bonnet. Attached is my current route - 3 pics attached. The harness is the black heavy cable.

Thanks,
Marc

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lewmac Avatar
lewmac Silver Member Lew McAllan
Hawthorn Woods, Chicago, IL, USA   USA
Do you plan to have the brackets that support the guards that bolt to the guards and to the radiator posts ? If so, the wire harness can run along the guard and this bracket and cross directly to the bonnet to connect with headlight wires.... which are not that long .... and then down to indicators. One way or another, you may need some connecting wires to run to either indicators or headlights. The pic attached shows teh routing typical for Mk2/3/4 cars.
Cheers
Lew


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Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Lew,

Are you saying if i run the harness as you are, along the radiator bracket (therefore keeping it high) that the harness will reach the headlights and indicators? If so, I like that routing. And, thanks again for the help.

Marc

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lewmac Avatar
lewmac Silver Member Lew McAllan
Hawthorn Woods, Chicago, IL, USA   USA
Yes exactly. Unfortunately my Mk3 harness in the Sebring does not include the wires for the front indicators, which is a pain, so I need to run three wires from this point to each indicator. However, I have new wiring for the headlights which should reach this wiring point, as the headlights sit just forward of this point.
Cheers
Lew

Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Lew,

Are you saying if i run the harness as you are, along the radiator bracket (therefore keeping it high) that the harness will reach the headlights and indicators? If so, I like that routing. And, thanks again for the help.

Marc

Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Lee,
I notice the branch of your harness going to the control box and fuse block is quite short, as it should be. Mine is long, about 30" from the firewall to the first set of wires, which is where the long 2 wire branch takes off. See my photo.

I am now concerned something isn't right. What is your opinion?

Thanks,
Marc


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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
You need to include a Quick Disconnect for this wiring.So when you want to remove the Bonnet it's simple. You need a 6 wire connector.

High Beam L&R
Low Beam L&R
Turn Signal L
Turn Signal R
Parking Lamp L & R
Common Ground for all wires.

I'd position so it fits in front on Right Side. I've put it close to the hinge. In the place I've used a 6 Connector Trailer Plug. For the latest Version I'm going for a WeatherPack 6 wire connector. As name says Weathertight Sealed Connection. You can get a pack of 3 M/F with Pigtails already wired and in place for around $15.00. I don't want to mess with plugging and unplugging Bullet Connectors. They are designed to be put together once not repeatedly plugging and unplugging. Trust me when you can remove the bonnet in 5 m with two bolts and unplugging a connector it wil lbe on and off more times than you can imagine. Especially if you are doing any up front work on cooling or other electrical. Order matching wire Blue/White, Blue/Red etc. from British Wiring / Heatshrink and Soldering Iron and Bob's Your Uncle.

After banging and bleeding 3 times this week sorting out Gremlins in Bugsy IV's electrical system, next project on the list is installing my new Front Tilt Bonnet. Had it on my last Sprite and need it now on this car. Since an Engine Swap is planned for late August for me, adding front tilt makes it so much easier. I was able to rig up a method to use a Block and Tackle arrangement in my garage so I could install and remove the bonnet by myself.

lewmac Avatar
lewmac Silver Member Lew McAllan
Hawthorn Woods, Chicago, IL, USA   USA
Your wiring harness is absolutely correct for a Bugeye. See the holes on the RHD fender, this is where the Voltage regulator and fuse box mount for a bugeye.

Mk 2,3 & 4 the Voltage Regulator moved to the firewall and the fuse box mounted just below on the fascia panel, since the fixed fenders made it impossible to mount electrics under there.

You would just run the extra bonnet harness down along the guard like I have in the Sebring pics. Looks like you have some extra length with the bonnet harness as well, so you may be able to run towards center of bonnet for easier connection of left side headlights, running light and indicator wires, as well as take the RH side wires there as well.

Cheers
Lew.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-12 11:51 AM by lewmac.

tgun Avatar
tgun Tom Guinther
Barefoot Bay, Florida, USA   USA
Marc,
When I added my hood tilt kit I routed my wires through flexible plastic tubing to prevent catching on the tilt hinges. I did have to add about 1' of wire to each line going forward to the lights. (4)
Tom


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Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Thanks Lew,

You've been very helpful. As I indicated in my first posting on this subject, I have no experience with Sprites and have taken this project over from others who were working on it for 20+ years. I'm now retired and love the challenge. All the mechanical work had been finished when I started the "takeover" phase. The only mechanical part left for me is MGB front brake conversion.

The wiring portion started just to get the harness in place. But, as these things go, I find I need to sort out more details than just feeding it through the firewall.

But, One more electrical question. The small 2 wire long loom leading from the heavy loom with all the fuse, control box and other wiring, is, I am guessing for the horn. But the colors don't match the schematic. There is a Brown with Black band wire (which should be "NB" but the schematic says "PB"winking smiley. The other wire is green with a brown stripe, or the other way around as each is the same width as the other. The schematic says "P". But, that extension of the wire loom is long enough to reach roughly where the horn is positioned. Also, why are there 2 wires to the horn? There should just be one wire, and then the other side should be a ground wire from the horn.

Are the wires the wrong colors, which is doubtful, or is the schematic incorrect???

Marc

lewmac Avatar
lewmac Silver Member Lew McAllan
Hawthorn Woods, Chicago, IL, USA   USA
These two wires are likely the brake sender wires. The brake sender on a Bugeye is mounted onto the brass union where the brake pipes meet.

The horn wire is purple I think on a Bugeye, or maybe brown..... it should also be two wires purple and purple black and should be coming from the same cluster of wires as that Green and Green black.

If you post a pic that shows the wires, it may be easier to identify for sure. I can also check a workshop manual tonight.

Cheers
Lew

Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Lew,
The wire loom is too long for the brake switch. See first pic. Second pic tries to show wire colors. Third pic shows brake switch with wire loom going way past the brake switch.


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Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Here are a few more pics. Marc


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Marscho Marc S
Albion, California, USA   USA
Thanks Jim,
I had thought of a quick disconnect. And will do that in the future. Right now I would just like to get things working as they were intended. Then it is less risky to start to make modifications.

Thanks for the information.

Marc

lewmac Avatar
lewmac Silver Member Lew McAllan
Hawthorn Woods, Chicago, IL, USA   USA
Hi Marc,

Yes, definitely the horn wires. Here is a color coded wire diagram I found on line that shows those colors.

Cheers
Lew


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