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Front Suspension Pin

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Jackh61 Jack Harryman
Newport Beach, CA, USA   USA
Hi all,

First off I appreciate any help and as this is just the beginning of the process of getting my sprite back on the road I'm sure there will be more questions.

I am working on the front suspension of my 61 bugeye and am stuck on how to remove the pin the holds the swivel pin to the fulcrum pin (the rounded off pin with a nut at the bottom). Its number 19 in the picture

I have spent longer than I probably should have and have not been able to get the thing to budge. Is there something I am missing?



Again, thanks for the help!

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Jack , after doing this 4 times soak in Evaporust for a few days and you may be able to get pin out only to find out the fulcrum bushings are totally toast or the wishbones are cracked and worn out. Order two new wishbones along with a major suspension kit and put it back together. Kingpins need to be reamed to fit so send them to Peter Caldwell in. Madison to be reamed correctly for fit. Also have him send you 4 of his rebuilt shocks to complete the package. The new wishbones will have holes for a sway bar that will dramatically improve handling. Replace all the rear bushing and radius arms and car will be like it’s on rails. I’ve done this 4 times and my latest BE is perfect. Tracks perfectly, comfortable at 80 and goes where I point it. It’s not cheap to do but do it right and you will not believe how good it can be.

Jim Gruber

refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
Jack,

The pin comes out from the top. Loosen the nut until it's flush with the end of the threads and then carefully hit the nut with a hammer to drive the pin up and out.

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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jack,
Welcome to the forum! I’ve never been able to get that pin out without drilling and then I find that the parts are worn out. Jim makes a great suggestion and after fooling with mine for too long I ordered a set of Aarms, kingpins, and a rebuild kit from PeterC at Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison. He had everything reamed and assembled on my spindles. I had him rebuild my calipers and lever shocks as well and I’m very pleased with the quality of work and would do it again...great guy to work with.
Sometimes the best tool to use is your credit card!
Rut
nosimport.com

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
And when that doesn’t work to get it apart a SawZall is your best friend. Try soaking overnight in Evaporust. That pin is contained in the Major Suspension Kit bundle BTW.

I was able to take apart and drive out that pin on my current BE but Bugsy IV is:was a car that lived in LA garaged for almost 60 years, never saw salt, and had an owner the made sure all front end maintenance was done regularly and the entire front suspension unbolted. If you are upgrading to Disc Brakes BTW you need a different spindle and you don’t need to take this apart. And lack of grease on a regular basis meant that bushings on the end of the wishbones wear out. And it is now cheaper to replace wishbones than to have the OEM wishbone bushings replaced.

refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
Despite what the other guys are saying, it can be done. I have successfully disassembled a number of Spridget front ends over the years. I've also taken some apart with a Sawzall. I would try the normal disassembly process first. If it doesn't work you can always resort to brute force and lots of new parts. $$$ the finger smiley

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
In reply to # 197999 by refisk Despite what the other guys are saying, it can be done. I have successfully disassembled a number of Spridget front ends over the years. I've also taken some apart with a Sawzall. I would try the normal disassembly process first. If it doesn't work you can always resort to brute force and lots of new parts. $$$ the finger smiley

True that!
Rut

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Great Minds think alike and there is a step by step pictorial on doing the whole front suspension rebuild step by step. Hoping you are planning on upgrading to front discs while you have everything apart. I drove Bugsy IV with drums all around for just about a month and I immediately pulled everything apart and swapped over to Front Disks from a donor car and later backing plates with 3/4" wheel cylinders. The difference in Braking Performance and Pedal feel was tremendous and I also had Gerard resleeve my BE Master Cylinder as a 3/4" Master in Brass. Now extremely pleased with Braking performance.

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Jack,

Just in case you have not seen this one. Step by Step.

http://www.mikeamick.com/76midget/

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Jackh61 Jack Harryman
Newport Beach, CA, USA   USA
Thank you all very much! I’ll try the suggestions over the weekend and hopefully will be able to get the pin out. If not I think I will move on and buy all new.

I have been following the step by step and it has been very helpful.

Thanks again

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
I wind the springs up with threaded rod. Just wind bolts up the threaded rod rather than use as jack.
It shows this method in the workshop manual. I felt it safer than the jack method.

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Two pieces of threaded rod diagonally from one another, replace two of the spring pan bolts. Don’t tighten the threaded rod all of the way up. Loosen and remove the other spring pan bolts, then loosen the threaded rod, wishbone will drop down, completely remove the threaded rod and take out the spring. Reassembly is the reverse. A ratcheting box wrench helps or unladylike you can find a really long bolt you can undo with an air powered ratchet,

smokey1971 Avatar
smokey1971 Les Boardman
St. Petersburg, FL, USA   USA
Put the car up on jack stands. Put a jack under the spring pan and remove the 4 bolts holding the pan and as you lower the jack, the spring will usually just fall out by itself. With the weight off the suspension there is no pressure on the spring and they will not "shoot out of the car". Just reverse the procedure to put them back in. A drift will help align the holes in the spring pan and lower arm as you jack it back up into position. You can even lower the front end a little by using slightly longer bolts and 1/2" spacers on the bolts between the lower arm and the spring pan.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Hi Jim. That's the way with the threaded rods I use. I think it is safer. There
were wishbones with grease nipples at both ends available in UK at one time.
Worth considering as the fulcrum pin requires regular greasing. That way the grease
gets to both ends.

jimandcassdavis Jim Davis
Swanton, OH, USA   USA
The locking pin is tapered so it needs to be tapped out from the "nut" end. That said, it's nearly impossible to remove and if you beat on it it will mushroom. Ask me how I know.
In the end, I had to cut the knuckle on the swivel pin.
By the way, if you plan on going to disk brakes from a later car you will be replacing the swivel pin anyway since the mounting for the brakes is different. Again, ask me how I know......

Jim Davis

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