I have one good bn1 front brake drum and two that rub the brake shoe in one spot. I assume that means they’re warped. Can they be turned on a lathe and used again?
Is it even pissible to get good bn1 front brake drums? Is there an alternative?

I had my brake drum re surfaced. It’s good now.

Thomas--

The rear drums on my BN1 could probably use a turning. Where did you have the work done?

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Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)

Thomas and Michael,

My local "old school" brake shop, "Vista Brake", in Vista, CA does this for me. They re-lined my original BN1 front and rear brake shoes, and then turned the drums, and finally arced the brake shoe linings to each respective drum. My brakes are fantastic, at least for original drums.

http://www.vistabrake.com/

Shipping for the front BN1 brake drums and shoes can be inexpensive (less than $20) IF you use a USPS Large Flat Rate Shipping Box. It's a tight fit if you use sufficient padding material so they won't be damaged, but it will work as I've done it several times before. I think that I used several pieces of 1/2" thick white foam sheets to pad the insides. You'll also need to use PLENTY of the fiber reinforced packing tape as you don't want the box coming apart in shipping.

Cheers,

Curt

Thank you Curt. I am hoping that Thomas will reply to my question as we are both in the DC Metro area and that would be more convenient to me.

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Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)

Sorry for the delay.

I had mine done at the service garage attached to the Exxon station(see pic). $25.00 per drum and it was done before noon the next day.

Thomas--

Thanks for the information.

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Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)

Before rushing out and getting the drums turned check that the drums are running true - the internal surface not the external surface of the drum. Spin the drums with a pointer bearing on the inside of the drums to centralise them and then drill four 5mm holes for steel pegs to keep the drums centralised.

If you prefer much better and safer braking over being strictly original, let me urge a switch to front disc brakes. Both Denis Welch and AH Spares sell the complete kit--though I had to buy new stub axles separately. Why did I go this route? Along with actually getting brakes I could count on when some yo-you in front of me decides to stand on the brakes for a last-minute turn-in to Starbucks, replacing old stub axles is a must on these early cars, as they were known to break.

More good news for those with an earlier BN1 with a spiral-bevel diff: Assuming the front drums can still be resurfaced, you can keep them as spares for the REAR brakes, as the front and rear drums on early, four-bolt-hub 100s are interchangeable!