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wayneo Avatar
wayneo Wayne Watkins
Sydney, NSW, Australia   AUS
1956 Austin-Healey 100 "Horace"
1959 Triumph TR3A "Trumpy"
1965 Nissan Silvia
1989 Mazda MX-5
Michael Salter is correct as current Healey water pumps are made in China and are bound to fail , particularly under conditions that you will face on your little ' holiday ' .I have a friend who runs a Davies Craig electric water pump on his Hillman Imp engine with no problems ever . Admittedly his engine is merely a fire pump compared to the big 2.6 litre lump in your Gidget . If it is allowed in the regulations , I would fit the electric pump first and carry a spare one . They are very light in weight .

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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Yes Michael and Wayne - We hear you loud and clear, and agree. But right now I have SO many other things to do, I am not about to take the radiator out plus everything else required in order to get the water pump out. I just do not have time at present. I am trying first to get the car together and running again, then I can perhaps tackle some of these items. You talk absolute sense, and if I had 5 mechanics working full time, I would get one of them to do it tomorrow !!
It would appear from your comments that the flow rate of the DC electric pump is (within reason) immaterial. If a fan digital controller is also fitted, then the speed of the pump can be regulated anyway.
Appreciate your input.
Giles



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
OK, based on Michael and Wayne's comments, Ashton and I have decided to go ahead and make the changes to electric water pump and electric puller fan. We are getting a blank machined up for the existing water pump location, with a pipe welded in for the hose. We are getting a Davies Craig EWP115 water pump, and will install that and carry one spare unit. We are fitting a SPAL 13" (33 cm) puller fan that we will mount to two cross bars that we will bolt across the radiator, bolting to the existing flanges on each side of the radiator. Our radiator is 47 cm wide and 35 cm tall, so this 13" fan will just fit nicely given the height restrictions.
Then we don't have to worry about the existing Healey (made in China ?) water pump.
Thanks for your input.
Giles



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Michael S Avatar
Michael S Michael Salter
Dwight, ON, Canada   CAN
Sorry 1 more thing ... if you are using a puller fan it is absolutely essential that it be fully shrouded right to the edges and top and bottom of the radiator.
Put your hand close to the "pull" side of any unshrouded fan and you will realize why.
I don't think that any more than 20% of the air that a regular Healey fan moves when the car is stationary actually passes through the radiator core!!!



Michael Salter
Technical Chairman (Big Healeys)
Austin Healey Concours Committee

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thanks, Michael - Yes, hear that loud and clear. We have done the following already :-

Constructed ducting in front of the radiator so that ALL air that goes in the grill goes through the radiator. There is no room for it to escape to the sides or above or below - Only way for it to escape is via back pressure out forwards again !! See photo of ducting below.
With the original water pump and Texas cooler fan, because we had moved the radiator forward a couple of inches, we had constructed shrouding all around the gap between fan and radiator. Obviously this is now not really needed, but we might leave it.
The new fan will be mounted within about 1/2" of the radiator core, and the fan has a kind of in built shroud around it already. If it needs more, we will do it. But we are NOT having an overheating problem so far - In fact with the items above and the modern radiator core, we have the opposite - We cannot get enough heat into the engine to reach optimum temps ! We are even having to build a radiator grill "blanket" to partly cover the radiator to get temps up to optimum !!

As always on this car, I am sure something will change before we get it all in, but that is the current plan.

Appreciate your advice.

By the way, a friend of mine who lives in Newfoundland recently suggested we should bring the car to Targa NF !! Having read your report, I thought it might be interesting to do further down the track........smiling smiley



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
While the radiator etc is being sorted, andother question for the forum :-

Amongst all the many new items we fitted to the car was also a brand new brake fluid reservoir. (All the brake lines are also new). The new reservoir was a nice black painted colour, while the previous old (and slightly rusty one, and thus discarded) unit was just shiny steel.
Much to our disappointment, the new units seems to leak, or at least slop fluid around, and the only place I can see for it to escape is the small breather hole in the screw top. This is backed up by the fact that the paint on the lid itself, (as well as the sides of the reservoir body) is all bubbled up from exposure to the fluid.

Do these lids normally leak ? While some of the roads we were on were a bit bumpy, the "slopping" effect in the reservoir would surely have been no more than on a race track when cornering or braking hard.

Is this a known issue ? Can we put something in the breather hole to block it ? Or do we have a faulty unit ?

Most upset as the fluid has blistered a lot of our beautiful Coronet Cream paint in the engine bay directly below the fluid reservoir.

As usual, appreciate comments from the experienced ones.

Giles

PS And yes, the lid was done up tight !!



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PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Giles, the attached photo is of the underside of my reservoir cap. Note the dome in the centre, which is a baffle to prevent the problem that you have experienced. Also the cap has a seal to prevent leakage. The reservoir must be open to the atmosphere and should be no more than three quarters full (according to the Workshop Manual).



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2018-11-13 12:02 AM by PAN.


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Rozzer Ashton Roskill
Sydney, NSW, Australia   AUS
Thanks for this Alwyn; once he's back, I've no doubt Giles will find that we've not got the baffle in ours - usual story when it comes to buying aftermarket stuff, it never seems to be right first time! Ho hum....

On a separate note, can anyone tell us how the "tails" on the soft top that appear to be designed to direct water that has flowed back along the side window down and away from the cabin are supposed to fit - or do they just flap in the breeze? Are they supposed to be shut in the door gap perhaps? Apart from the annoying flapping noise, and the fact that they are already fairly damaged from being accidentally caught in the door lock, we are trying to work out how they are designed to work? Or are they, as with most old British cars' roofs, a bit of an afterthought with no serious design principle? In which case we may shorten them!!

Thoughts anyone?

panelbeat Dave C.
N/A, N/A, USA   USA
Giles, I have also had trouble with the new brake reservoir cans leaking. I have found that keeping the fluid well below the lid helps a lot. Keep it no higher than the top of the inner tube, (secondary chamber). But I have also had a nusiance leak at times from the fittings at the bottom of the can. I know once I have gotten it sealed, just don't touch it. But since I don't like that arrangement i decided to buy plastic reservoirs. I bought them at Summit Racing. I must admit that I have not installed them yet since this past summer the current metal reservoir has been doing alright. Here is a link and a couple of points. I originally bought # 260-10500 because it has the smallest reservoir but when I received it I found that it had a 3/8" hose which is too big for the pipes down to the master cylinders. So then I bought # 260-11098 which has a 1/4" hose but has a larger reservoir. But the reservoirs can be inter changed on their bases. A small fabricated bracket from the upright where the current reservoir is will hold two plastics quite nicely. Cut the pipes just below the current reservoirs and slide the hoses on and no more leaks i should presume.
Dave.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098/overview/

Well, as usual I keep forgetting that your car is a 100 and the reservoirs are not as on my 3000. But the plastic reservoir my still solve your problem.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-11-18 02:04 PM by panelbeat.

PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Hi Ashton,
I believe you are referring to the flap that surrounds the sidescreen opening. There should be a press-stud that clips to the inside of the door pillar. The attached photo is from “Original Austin-Healey” Anders Ditlev Clausager.



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Yes, Alwyn / Ashton, I checked on a 100/4 that was in AH Spares yesterday and there WAS a press stud down inside for that flap to attach too - First time I have seen that. However of course ours neither had a press stud fitting on either the tail or the inner panel, thus our query. In addition I was discussing this very issue with a couple of 100 owners at the recent JH Restorations Open Day (when the rain was threatening and roofs were being raised) and the car under discussion also did not have the press studs even though it is reasonably original.
More to the point if you DO use a press stud on the inside to fix that flap, all the water will then run down inside !!! I discussed that with John at AH Spares and he admitted this was a known problem !!
Answer - I don't think we want to have that flap inside. I think it might be better to shorten it slightly (so it doesn't get caught in the door all the time and also so it doesn't flap so much in the breeze) and make sure it is out side so (some of) the water stays on the outside !!!
Giles



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thanks for the info on the brake fluid cap, Alwyn. I will check on my return after the weekend. I do have a "spare" reservoir lid since we fitted a new (but evidently not improved !) reservoir during the rebuild. Maybe the old cap (original ?) has got this baffle. If not, it should be possible to make up a small rubber gasket to fit in the lid, with a small hole in it to allow air movement, that would effectively act as a baffle. Of even just a small circle of thin alloy with a pin prick hole in the middle..........
Giles



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Alwyn, ref the brake fluid reservoir cap. See attached photos of my new one (the ratty looking one with the peeling black paint and the larger black rubber gasket on the inside and a brether hole in the centre), and also the original cap (the nice shiny one with the smaller gasket and a breather hole to one side of centre.)
This second one matches yours.
I have therefore replaced the "new" cap with the original one, and will see how it goes. The brake fluid reservoir is only about half full.
Thanks, Giles



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Even though we now have a roll bar, we still need to try to not only keep (some of) the dust out, but also some of the cold wind. I found a large piece of perspex in my neighbour's rubbish skip (he is renovating his house) which he gave me, and I cut out a large rear window, and then got carried away and made two "quarter lights", bending these to shape over the gas flames of our kitchen stove (with the wife's approval !!) It reminds me a little of the rear window of the TR6 ! Hopefully it will keep some of the wind, sleet, and snow off the back of our necks ! And all held in place with a couple of velcro straps. It will be interesting to see how it performs.
And it all fits under the soft top if needed !
Giles



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Zotch Tony M
Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire, UK   GBR
Giles, Re your water pump issues. I realise that this is a bit late but I have only just read (and been asbsorbed in) this wonderful thread.

I have recently had my original 100 water pump reconditioned by a company in Wolverhampton who have been servicing water pumps for around 40yrs. They turned the job around within the day and give a lifetime guarantee. Apparently the work involves some machining and modern sealed bearings are fitted. Having seen the internals of copy pumps the guy was not very impressed to say the least. Visit. http://www.ep-services.co.uk

Hope the above may be of use to you or someone else, now or in the future. Best of luck on the trip. Tony

PS Any info on how you resolved the LHD to RHD conversion would be useful!

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