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#1
  This topic is about my 1954 Austin-Healey 100
Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Last weekend Ashton and I had our first real hit out on dirt roads in the Rally 100. The car was excellent and with the Yokohama offroad tyres on really seemed to enjoy the gravel roads. smiling smiley Braking was a different issue - But I will deal with that separately !

Due to the brake issues, we have had to take the wheels off quite frequently, and one thing I have noticed is that the potential for damage to wheels and hammer is quite high, especially when I am wielding the hammer !! We also have a Tyre Dog pressure and temparature monitoring system in place, which uses a sender unit on the end of the tyre valve stem, and this also is potentially vulnerable when I am on the other end of the hammer !

Has anyone used these long "racing spanners" (like pic attached below) ? Do they get the spinner tight enough just through leverage ? Or are we better off to get a shorter (and cheaper !) spanner like the 2nd pic attached, although I presume this still needs a hammer to tighten fully.

Appreciate comments.

BTW, I would plan to make my own, and not pay £160 for a spanner !!

Thanks, Giles



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PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Giles, you can’t beat a Thor copper/hide hammer. I wouldn’t trust one of these gadgets. OK for trailer queens but not for cars that are driven on the road, especially in the conditions that you anticipate.
Cheers,
Alwyn

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
You haven't seen me with a Thor hammer in my hands !!! Its terrifying !! confused smiley



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Healey2 Avatar
Healey2 Silver Member Curtis Arndt
CA, USA   USA
Giles,

This is what is popular in the USA...

-Curt


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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Yes, Curtis, I have seen them. But you still need to hit them with a hammer ! I also understand they are prone to break before too long - Please tell me if that is not the case, as ours will get 2 years of use in just one month. Most "normal" people take their wheels off maybe once a month, or once a year even. My concern is just that for 36 days we are going to have to take our wheels off virtually every evening in order to check everything and grease everything etc, so 4 wheels, off then on again, means I will be wielding the hammer 36 x 4 x 2 = 288 times, and that doesn't include any punctures. So if there is even a 1% chance the hammer may slip and hit a spoke, or a Tyre Dog sensor (or my hand), then that means I will hit something other than the spinner 2.8 times during the journey. Factor in that some of the times we wield the hammer will be in poor / wet / windy / freezing / sandy / muddy conditions, or even in the dark, and the room for error increases considerably. The whole point with this event is you try to minimise the opportunities for disaster, and to me, wielding a hammer close to relatively fragile spokes etc is a problem waiting to happen, which might be avoidable is we make the right choice now. A broken spoke in the middle of the Gobi is not good !
As for those expensive Thor hammers, we haven't even left yet and the leather section is almost destroyed !! I am thinking that if we go "hammer", one of those plastic ones filled with lead shot would be a better option.........
Last night I read everything I could about hammer vs spanner, and how to fit, tighten, or loosen wire wheels. Some people say hammer them up so hard they don't move, others say just snug them up because they will self tighten, one guy even said he watched Stirling Moss's mechanic just give two taps to his spinners on his race car to loosen them during a pit stop, and two taps to tighten them ! About the only thing there was concensus on was that you tighten them while the wheel is off the ground in order to centralise it, then just give it a couple of taps once it is on the ground.
Working on a Healey is a bit like getting old - Just when you think you know everything and life should be getting easier, you realise that you really know nothing and that life was a lot simpler when you were 21 !! smiling smiley
Giles



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Rydeback, Sweden   SWE
Hi guys,
I am new here so I should make a brief introduction of myself. I run a business called Sideways Engineering AB in Sweden and the majority of business and work we do is on Austin-Healeys including parts development and sales.
This thread caught my attention due to the fact that I am the man behind the Spinner Spanner and it is available from me - www.healey.se, AH Spares, MWS Wheels etc.
The whole idea behind the tool came from the fact that, as some of you write above, there are many risks involved in using a big hammer or mallet. For example, the spinners will sooner or later have visual damage and most likely cracks. Ball bearings don't really like being beaten in a static position and hitting the spokes can also happen.

Though, the main difference between a Spinner Spanner and a hammer is that the Spinner Spanner will never use any more force than needed to remove the spinner. A hammer which works with shock forces will use multiple times the force needed.

It might seem a bit suspicious to use a big wrench to tighten a spinner when you are used to a couple of good hits with a lead mallet. Fact is that when using the Spinner Spanner some of the buyers actually use much more force than needed and double checking it afterwards with their usual mallet it shows the spinners are tighter than ever. smiling smiley

We have sold these for more than ten years and only one has been returned broken. After hearing the story that two big blokes had been hanging on it not knowing some spinners were left threaded we replaced it FOC, laughed in silence and beefed up the tool to never make this happen again.

The Spinner Spanner is made from billet aluminium and the tool and bar are screwed together to allow it to fit nicely behind the petrol tank in a Healey.

Keep on Healeying,

Anders

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Hart70 Charlie Hart
CARPINTERIA, CA, USA   USA
Wooden / carbon fiber spinner wrench. Also can be used to move the car ! Spinners will never get damaged since the spinner ears are in contact with "Ipe" hardwood.


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San Jose, CA, USA   USA
I have nothing useful to add, except that I really like saying 'spinner spanner' out loud.

bs

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Alwyn,

I made this little beauty for use around the shop.

Peter


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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
smiling smiley , Bob Spidell !!!

Peter, excellent for the garage, but not so easy to pack in the boot/trunk on a 15,000 km drive 1/2 way round the world !!

Charlie, did you make that or buy it ?

Giles



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Louie Avatar
Louie Lou G
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
Giles
Sounds like you need a non-hammering style unit. The spinners won't look too good after your rallye, no matter what you use.
For regular use at home , I'd pick a unit that cradles the spinner, non-hammering preferred. The thin metal spanners make contact in 2 points on the spinner and will leave a dent at those points.

Currently using a Cook lead hammer that works great, but only pulling wheels once a year.
Lead shot hammers work good too.

Also using the lead hammer on Jag Mk2 -- takes a toll on that hammer.
Swedish spanner looks cool.

Lou
Bn1
An5

Trevor Parker Avatar
Trevor Parker Silver Member Trevor Parker W
Sidney, BC, Canada   CAN
1954 Austin-Healey 100 "Healey Beep Beep"
1955 Austin-Healey 100
I have been using the black flat steel version of spinner removal tool for several years, and find it tightens the spinners as tight as a hammer. And it has eliminated the annoying fender banging and wheel paint chipping. But it does leave marks in the spinner . Plastic dead blow hammer's are a waste of time as they will soon fall apart. A lead hammer works the best but appreciate that it will wear out eventually. I think one of these wrenches and a hammer( lead ) would be what I would take on a long road trip. I carry both in both of my Healeys. Cheers Trevor

PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Giles,
The amount of equipment that you will be carrying will be daunting enough. Just carry a proper Thor copper/hide hammer. Don’t listen to all the “trailer queen” owners. You are not careless, you won’t miss hit the knock-on and damage the bodywork with the Thor and if the chrome plating on the knock-on is done properly, you won’t damage the ears with a soft copper hammer!
Cheers,
Alwyn

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thanks Alwyn - Sage advice that takes into consideration the space (or lack of) that we have available !!
We currently use a Thor hammer, but the leather end is already suffering quite badly - Hopefully now we are more used to using it and are getting more accurate, future damage will be minimised. Does anyone refurbish the leather section in Aus ? Or is it just cheaper / easier to buy a new one ? Does the last "bit" of the leaher section last a lot longer than the first par ?? smiling smiley I see they are £39.50 new from AH Spares, plus freight.
Giles



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