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What did you do with your 100 today?

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Did you repair or replace some worn out parts?
Add a new accessory?
Take it out for a drive on twisty back roads?

What did YOU do with your Austin-Healey 100 today?

Post your update below......




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Gazzam Garry McDonald
Kootingal, NSW, Australia   AUS
Not much action on this thread, so here goes.
I mounted a pair of driving lights, but haven't bothered to wire them up. I really only wanted them for looks - my car doesn't have overriders - as I've always thought there was just a bit too much body colur showing at the front on a 100/4.
Then I drove it to work, 20 km. Had a flat and wrecked the tyre. I do love how easy it is to change a wheel with knockoffs.
So I went all over town trying to find a 165/80-15, with no luck at all.
I don't like driving without a spare so I put a used bike tyre on it ( I work at a motorbike shop).
It looks wierd but will get me out of trouble.

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
I think a lot of owners in North America are still in deep freeze.
Bike tire? Ingenious. I've seen some modified bikes with rear wheels wider than my car's tires...



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Gazzam Garry McDonald
Kootingal, NSW, Australia   AUS
Well it's only on the spare. I really didn't want to buy another tyre as the car came with a second set of wider wheels. These need renovation and new tyres. The bike tyre will serve as a spare till then.

Vintage n Classic Avatar
Vintage n Classic Silver Member Geoff Golding
Nelson, Tasman, New Zealand   NZL
Finally my dream is complete!

We have a hundred Healey that does not drop oil after being driven.

I thought it was the Rear main (despite putting in a Denis Welsch modification or the front seal on the gearbox.............both dry.

As the car is running over 10:1 compression ratio it turns out oil was being forced out the crankcase breather.........a modification of taking the breather up approx. 4" before heading down has solved the problem. The oil I was seeing under the car after a run was oil coming in very small quantities down the breather and being blown under the car with the lowest points being the principal catching points e.g. bell housing, gear box and chassis.......bliss a clean garage floor!

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Nice going Geoff! If it doesn't drip oil you might forget it's British...

I guess with that high compression ratio, there's a bit of extra pressure getting by the rings.

Skye



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Vintage n Classic Avatar
Vintage n Classic Silver Member Geoff Golding
Nelson, Tasman, New Zealand   NZL
Yes that's what the cause was - pressure getting past the rings. To qualify for me to forget our Healey is British.........surgery would be necessary. Remember there is still that well known medico "Doctor Lucas"...... who I can assure you he is very alive and well in "My Shed"

PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Annual oil change & chassis lube even though I only added 2,000 miles in the last twelve months!
Polished the chrome in readiness for two fellow AHOCQ members' wedding next weekend.

100M Avatar
100M mike lewis
harbor island, SC, USA   USA
Had my 100M out yesterday here in coastal South Carolina, about 55 degrees so windshield up as opposed to normally down ! Still doing some final adjustments after having the OD rebuilt a couple of months ago, in the body and paint shop to repair some minor damage and looks better than before ! Took everything off including the stainless steel beading and as most of you know, that is just a joy to put back on - not. But all bits back on, running great and I'm a happy guy !!!

Sent a PM to Geoff about his fix of the oil leak from the crankcase breather pipe but not sure it went through. Did you make like a plumbing pipe "trap" on the vent pipe so the oil that drips in there stays in there or simply a 90 degree (+/-) bend and then bend it back straight ? My factory 100M engine is not running 10-1 compression, more like 8-1, but other than the typical oil leak from the head gasket by the engine vin plate, does not leak from the rear main seal or valve cover - love that silicone gasket.

Regards,
Mike

Vintage n Classic Avatar
Vintage n Classic Silver Member Geoff Golding
Nelson, Tasman, New Zealand   NZL
Mike,

Yes it came through Mike...............To answer you

What I did was take the original breather from coming out of the plate on the side of the engine where it goes straight down and turned upwards as the 1st step.

Then I worked our how high I could go without getting too close the bottom of the number 4 cylinder extractor pipe - in my case it was about 3 inches. To gain this clearance I tipped the pipe at about 15 degrees i.e. I re-welded the "up pipe" in the base plate...... NOTE .At the bottom of the breather this requires a different mounting bracket.

At the top of the breather pipe I then welded the two pipes together and created a small gallery to act as an oil catcher and send the oil back down the breather back into the cam chamber on the side of the engine.

It's not my favourite thing to do but given experience with other motors it struck me that the breather was too generous on the Healey motor and at the flange into the motor on the breather, I welded in a constricting piece of steel (a thickish washer in fact) to close off the opening by about 20%. This was welded on the bottom of the up pipe so its oil tight. Then to allow any oil that was up the breather to escape back to the motor I drilled a small drain hole on the side but in line with the bottom of the pipe.

We have done about 400 miles with this modification in place, mostly on highway conditions, and as of today under the car there is no oil from the breather so it seems a successful modification that is buried in the bottom of the engine bay of the car.

Hopefully this helps with your car but I should also explain that I suspect the problem was there was not due wear in the motor but a legacy of having a high compression ratio. This point has been the subject of discussion with a couple of motor engineers who confirmed my suspicions.

Cheers Geoff

100M Avatar
100M mike lewis
harbor island, SC, USA   USA
Hey Geoff,
Thanks for the detailed explanation ! Any chance you might be able to take a couple of pictures of this although know it is buried beneath everything on the carb side of the engine.
Thanks again,
Mike

Vintage n Classic Avatar
Vintage n Classic Silver Member Geoff Golding
Nelson, Tasman, New Zealand   NZL
Mike, I have been able to take some photos - not very good due to tight space as you suggested anyhow hope they help.

The first is looking up from below (the breather is silver in colour), the second is looking along under the extractor and the third is looking down between the extractors taken from the firewall.

Cheers
Geoff


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100M Avatar
100M mike lewis
harbor island, SC, USA   USA
Hey Geoff,
THANK YOU for the pictures - about how I pictured it. Seems like it is like a P trap as we call it over here as used in a plumbing fixture so the vent gases do not escape into your house.
What do you mean by "created a small gallery" to capture the oil ? Of course hard part for me would be welding up something as shall we say my welding skills are not great ! I might experiment with the existing one and simply clean everything up and stick something on the bottom of the pipe to collect any oil and see what's there after taking her out for a run. Would hate to go to the trouble and find out it is only from the head gasket area that is prone to leaking on a 100. I do plan on fixing that as not difficult to do but wlll wait on it after dealing with the OD this year.
Thanks again Geoff,
Mike

Martinld123 Avatar
Martinld123 Martin Davis
St. Charles, IL, USA   USA
I pulled the head in search of rough running engine problems. Finally found problem blown head gasket between 1 and 2 piston. Just rough running engine with no white smoke. I have been looking for months. So I sent aluminum head out to local trust machine shop to be weld up groove. Now looking for solid copper head gasket. Will use adhesive. Any ideas on gasket? Now for the big decision. Do I pull engine and have it checked or just put repaired head on and run it like a teenager, lol?

wakani Katlan J
None, MD, USA   USA
Got her all shined up, fueled and ready for the British Invade Gettysburg, PA car show. Rain or shine will be a blast.

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