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Moss Motors
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cressy21 David Cressman
Breslau, ON, Canada   CAN
1956 Austin-Healey 100 "Money Pit"
1956 Austin-Healey 100
Was able to get a template for the seat back tacking strip from another Healey member; using door skin material. I notice that Moss advertises a tack strip set and it appears that it comes in two pcs per set? I plan on using one complete piece and with a bit of heat/steam get it to bend properly.
Still struggling with fitting the louvered bonnet (new); have the proper level now just need to get it to come forward. I am probably going to end up making new reinforcement hinges on the bonnet as I'v extended the holes to very close to the edge.
Just for planning purpose any input would be appreciated re tires to put on the new 72 spoke wheels (15"x 5"winking smiley I purchased from Moss. I'm restoring the car to a driver that I can take on a major highway to the cottage as well as pleasure trips. Found the tech article in the November addition very informative but would appreciate any input.
P.S. I like the wider tire but want to make sure it fits.

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gladhill1937 Avatar
gladhill1937 Kent Lacy
Chesapeake, VA, USA   USA
Check the length of the bonnet front to back. An original 100M bonnet is 35.5 inches. The only alum aftermarket bonnet that I've installed was too short by nearly 1/4" and had to be welded on the front edge. Gaps all around shouldn't be much more than 3/16".

MoreMonkey Jonathan Handelman
Freeport, ME, USA   USA
I just looked at the old girl sitting under the cover. The temperature here was -4 degrees F when I left for work.

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cressy21 David Cressman
Breslau, ON, Canada   CAN
1956 Austin-Healey 100 "Money Pit"
1956 Austin-Healey 100
Finished putting on homemade wood tacking strips on seat backs and delivered to shop to get upholstered. Picked up seat cushions which were finished and seat bases which I still have a bit of work to do on. Plan to do that this afternoon and continue to tackle the job of getting the new louvered aluminum shroud fitted. Have it level now but need to bring it forward a bit. I'll then enjoy the holidays with family and friends. Merry Christmas to everyone!

cressy21 David Cressman
Breslau, ON, Canada   CAN
1956 Austin-Healey 100 "Money Pit"
1956 Austin-Healey 100


Thanks; after spending $1000 U.S it would have been nice to have a better fit taking in consideration of that the hours needed to be spent fitting it. Finally did some alterations to the hinges to bring it forward; still uneven at front corners but that seems to be my shroud; will be able to remedy that. Found that aluminum might be nice in regards to weight and louvers for looks and heat displacement but it was distorted because of how the steel frame is attached to the skin; needed to spend some work to remedy that as well.Starting to block the body and fit doors and boot/trunk. Also drilled/fitted seat rails and seat base frames. Picked up my reupholstered seat and back from a local outfit that used my Moss upholstery kit; looking good! Spent some time fitting new shut face finishers, Had to drill holes in them to fit those on pillars and allow for adjustment. Question; how many and what screws do I use on them; especially on pillars. Also, any suggestions for fitting piping? In the next couple of weeks the car should be ready for paint!

55BN1Chris Avatar
55BN1Chris Christopher D
Millbrae, CA, USA   USA
Retro-fitting 12.88 inch diameter x 1.1 inch thick, vented/dual plane 6 pot caliper wilwood disc brake system onto my 55 BN1 (v8 heavily modified healey by prior owner). Almost there in getting a great brake setup complete.

When done, Rear will have the same size discs with 4 pot calipers.


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56bn2 Avatar
56bn2 John R
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
In reply to # 190820 by 55BN1Chris Retro-fitting 12.88 inch diameter x 1.1 inch thick, vented/dual plane 6 pot caliper wilwood disc brake system onto my 55 BN1 (v8 heavily modified healey by prior owner). Almost there in getting a great brake setup complete.

When done, Rear will have the same size discs with 4 pot calipers.

What size master cylinder are you using?

55BN1Chris Avatar
55BN1Chris Christopher D
Millbrae, CA, USA   USA
Using a floor mounted Tilton pedal box with separate front and rear master cylinders (balance bar setup).
The pedal box has 4 steps of flexible pedal ratio ability from 5.29:1, 5.44:1, 5.61:1 and 5.75:1.

Wilwood FNSL6R calipers front
Wilwood FNSL4R calipers rear

Front MC - 3/4" bore,
Rear MC - 7/8" bore.

12.88" diameter 1.1" thick rotors on all four wheels.

56bn2 Avatar
56bn2 John R
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
In reply to # 190832 by 55BN1Chris Using a floor mounted Tilton pedal box with separate front and rear master cylinders (balance bar setup).
The pedal box has 4 steps of flexible pedal ratio ability from 5.29:1, 5.44:1, 5.61:1 and 5.75:1.

That is exactly what I need to do. My pedal ratio is all wrong. You have any photos of that pedal set up? Would like to see how you or PO did it. Thanks,John

55BN1Chris Avatar
55BN1Chris Christopher D
Millbrae, CA, USA   USA
I have not mounted the pedal box yet. I have however seen pictures of others using a tilton pedal box and I've been in the process of laying my footprint for locating it.

In a brilliant move, the prior owner of this healey had the chevy v8 header collectors located to within the path of the original foot brake leverage arm and so the brakes couldn't even perform a full stroke without running into the headers and stopping the stroke..... no wonder upon purchase he said "the brakes aren't great".

Yikes.

Also he had an automatic chevy 350TH trans.... I am taking it back to a stick with the pedal box and a hydraulic throwout bearing in a TKO500 Tremec trans..... a bigger project for another day, but it will be ready when the time comes to hook up the clutch pedal.

Right now it is all about getting a caliper mount set for the front calipers..... looking like I'll need to custom fabricate them. Was hoping that the Dennis Welch BJ8 aftermarket stub axle alternative brackets (which fit nicely on a BN1 stub axle) which generate a 3.5" spread on the caliper mounts would work with existing wilwood radial caliper brackets..... but unfortunately the standard Wilwood brackets are all too short and the Mustang II brackets which share the 3.5" spacing, are all too long...... feling a little goldilocks here. So I will need to make my own just right.

Craig Clifton Avatar
Martinez, CA, USA   USA
Chris which of the Wilwood front hubs did you use?

55BN1Chris Avatar
55BN1Chris Christopher D
Millbrae, CA, USA   USA
It's been a fun project so far in measurement and research, but nobody should have to replicate the work if they try to follow my path… honestly I’d wait till I get to the end solution. Although I don't guarantee your outcome as I did this based upon spec measuring what was on my car. My assumption is that it would work for anyone.

This is what worked for me so far......

1955-57 Chevy Hat mounted hubs have the same A2 outer bearing (0.75" outer bearing inner diameter) and A6 inner bearing (1.25" Inner bearing inner diameter).
These are the correct bearings to fit the BN1 spindle however the spacing for the bearings on the Chevy hub is 3.02" and that would put the outer bearing partially on the castle nut thread. (Wilwood doesn't have a narrower hub). This was unsatisfactory to me, and so....

I had a local high-end CNC shop remove the inner bearing race, and hone the bearing seat an extra 0.18" deeper on the inside bearing seat. Then re-seat the bearing raise and now it fits beautifully (took 1 day to get them back), rolls smooth as butter and they are super light compared to the hard to find steel lug mount hubs others are having to resort to fabricating. These clear the spindle cleanly. Just an FYI, I avoided seating the outer bearing 0.18" deeper because the inside of the hub shape design. Seating it deeper would likely remove too much of the metal behind the bearing raise and weaken the hub, while seating the inside bearing deeper only increase the amount of metal directly contacting the bearing race.

Overall project parts identification:
The hub is Wilwood part #270-7631 and they are $135 a piece (x2) and the machine shop work was another $100.
The hats are WIL-170-8132 (0.41" offset) $158 a piece (x2); although I am still not sure if I should have gone with 170-8919 (0.29" offset). The 0.41" offset brings the disc as close inboard as I felt comfortable in relationship to the steering arm and the suspension arms, the 0.29" would put the disc even further outboard and further from the steering/suspension components, but put both the rotor and the caliper closer to the wheel. The only benefit of the lower offset would be decreased spacers on the caliper mount to caliper bracket (will discuss later).
The hat bolts are WIL-230-4572 $60 a pack (x2)
The rotors are WIL-160-13543-BK $225 a piece (x2)
The calipers are WIL-120-12003-RD (Left) and WIL-120-12002-RD (Right) $325 a piece (x2)

I am currently working on the caliper brackets.

I have the BN1 original 3.25" spaced caliper mount brackets that come with the BN1 stub axle. However 3.25” is a rare spacing for most vehicles.

I also happen to have a set of Dennis Welch's BJ8 Caliper Bracket Kit alternative for P16 BJ8 calipers (part # CBRK152BL $180). These mount perfectly on BN1 stub axles and can be faced in either direction and give a 3.5" caliper mount spacing that is more common to cars..... mounting them arched outward is how I am currently proceeding.

So far I haven't found a good radial mount wilwood bracket to give me the spacing I need to get the caliper at the right radial location from the spindle center line for the brake calipers to sit flush with the edge of the rotors (I need a caliper mount height of 2.0875" from the BJ8 caliper bracket mount center line to the wildwood caliper mount surface (This should include at least 1-2 shims, a spacer to clear the caliper in addition to the bracket height; the shims are suggested for flexibility in alignment).

Mounted with the Dennis Welch bracket arching outward gives me (0.735" space between the bracket face and the caliper mount bolt centerline (caliper offset)..... You'd prefer to keep any spacers here to a minimum, the bracket is 1" thick with 0.5" on the one side contributing to the offset, leaving me to add a 0.2" spacer and a single 0.035" shim to get to the 0.735” offset total. Which is pretty clean, the aforementioned 0.29" hat offset would eliminate the need for the 0.2” spacer and use only 3 shims, however in the end, the shape of the Dennis Welch bracket gives a 0.175" bump where the radial caliper bracket will mount, and if not shaped to fit the mount to bracket, the matchup is easier and benefits from the 0.2" spacer by placing the radial caliper mount above the bump on the bracket. So for now, it appears best that I went with the 0.41” hat offset.

In the end, I may need to fabricate the radial caliper mounts from 1”x7”x 2” Aluminum if I do figure out an alternative from another wildwood kit. (Dynapro and Superlites all share the same 5.98” caliper bolt hole spacing).

56bn2 Avatar
56bn2 John R
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
Beneficial information. I had a much simpler route. PO had installed BJ8 brakes/hubs up front. Worked great. Thought I needed​ more so I bought Toyota truck dual piston calipers and custom braided hoses. Went on easy. Now my pedal is super firm due to terrible ratio given original pedal ratio. I'm running some GM master cylinder no idea of size. Wilwood calipers on GM 12 bolt rear.

If I had to do it over again I wouldn't. Good BJ8 brakes working correctly aren't much smaller than the Toyota brakes. Once I get my pedal box and correct MC installed I may change my mind on this statement.


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55BN1Chris Avatar
55BN1Chris Christopher D
Millbrae, CA, USA   USA
Looks good. For your MC..... I liked this informational PDF about pedal firmnesss and my selection - lower right box page 1. Maybe it will help you out.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/pdf/designing_4_pot_brakes.pdf

"The effect of increasing/decreasing master cylinder size is often misunderstood. Increasing the master cylinder bore diameter will reduce power, decrease pedal movement and give a firmer pedal.
Decreasing the master cylinder bore diameter will increase power, but at the expense of a longer pedal. However, the opposite is the case with caliper piston size. Increasing the caliper piston size will increase power but give a longer pedal. Decreasing the caliper piston size will reduce power but give a shorter pedal movement."

As far as the Toyota 4 pots.... I drive a 07 Toyota truck as my daily and it has the 4 pot fronts and I have to say my only disappointment with the truck is how Frustrated and disliking of its brakes, they heat fast, fade quickly no matter what pad or rotor I select they are spongy after a few stops on a hill, I have changed pads and rotors 3 times in 2 years, same bad takes for my wife's Toyota van..... I can't reasonably justify the $2500 TRD kit for the truck on top of my project car costs.... as such, I thought about the mentioned Toyota route for the healey, but couldn't bring myself to use the biggest thing I dislike about one vehicle to another. Of course the healey is lighter than the truck, you may in the end be very satisfied, but I really wanted more with the 6 pot front 4 pot rear big brake vented system.

56bn2 Avatar
56bn2 John R
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
In reply to # 190904 by 55BN1Chris Looks good. For your MC..... I liked this informational PDF about pedal firmnesss and my selection - lower right box page 1. Maybe it will help you out.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/pdf/designing_4_pot_brakes.pdf

"The effect of increasing/decreasing master cylinder size is often misunderstood. Increasing the master cylinder bore diameter will reduce power, decrease pedal movement and give a firmer pedal.
Decreasing the master cylinder bore diameter will increase power, but at the expense of a longer pedal. However, the opposite is the case with caliper piston size. Increasing the caliper piston size will increase power but give a longer pedal. Decreasing the caliper piston size will reduce power but give a shorter pedal movement."

As far as the Toyota 4 pots.... I drive a 07 Toyota truck as my daily and it has the 4 pot fronts and I have to say my only disappointment with the truck is how Frustrated and disliking of its brakes, they heat fast, fade quickly no matter what pad or rotor I select they are spongy after a few stops on a hill, I have changed pads and rotors 3 times in 2 years, same bad takes for my wife's Toyota van..... I can't reasonably justify the $2500 TRD kit for the truck on top of my project car costs.... as such, I thought about the mentioned Toyota route for the healey, but couldn't bring myself to use the biggest thing I dislike about one vehicle to another. Of course the healey is lighter than the truck, you may in the end be very satisfied, but I really wanted more with the 6 pot front 4 pot rear big brake vented system.

Thanks for that Link.

Moss Motors sells the Toyota as their "big brake upgrade". Also this is a well known triumph tr upgrade. I bought mine from a Triumph shop actually and had hoses custom made as fittings at each end are different.

I wanted to go with a package that was known to fit with out much experimenting. I don't know that I would do it again. Until I get proper pedal ratio and MC I really can't know what I really have.

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