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Engine removal

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Engine removal
#1
  This topic is about my 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7
Rhughes Avatar
Rhughes Rick Hughes
I’m preparing to remove the engine and transmission from my new acquisition. I’ve looked in the shop manual but am not totally clear on where the lifting points are on the engine. Thanks. Rick.

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Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
In reply to # 208341 by Rhughes I’m preparing to remove the engine and transmission from my new acquisition. I’ve looked in the shop manual but am not totally clear on where the lifting points are on the engine. Thanks. Rick.

I've had to do this way too many times on my racer.....


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petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Hi Rick,

I found this description in my Workshop Manual along with a shot of my adventure.

Any of the Rocker Shaft bolts will support the weight of the engine... and gearbox.

I found it hard to believe they could hold up 728 lbs. but they did.

Good luck,
Peter

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Rhughes Avatar
Rhughes Rick Hughes
Thanks.

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Rick,

A good Workshop Manual is a valuable tool.

The one I have is a BMC publication and I think you can still find them on the internet.

Regards,
Peter


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HealeyRick Avatar
HealeyRick Rick N
MA, Northshore, USA   USA
Helps to have a pair of engine lift brackets that attach to the valve cover studs: https://www.englishparts.com/products/Austin-Healey/BRACKET-ENGINE-LIFTING-BRACKET/9160/386-745.html The engine tilt tool is nice to have, but I've done without. Make sure to place a piece of wood between the rear of the valve cover/engine block so it doesn't hit the firewall when you lift the front. The moments that giant lump hangs over that very expensive and easily dented shroud will be among the longest of your life:





Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Austin-Healey 3000 w/5.0L and T5Z: http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,8264

robcadle Rob Cadle
Redondo Beach, CA, USA   USA
Ditto comments on the rocker bolts. I removed the studs and used eyelets as you can see from the photo. These got pretty bent up given the crazy angle you have to use to put the engine in the car. I did with the rocker cover off. Much better to leave on like Doug shows so the load leveler doesn’t dump crap in your newly built engine.

We used a shorter section of chain in the front to help get a really large angle on the engine as we put it in. This led to some not very nice angles on the chain.

When I took the engine out of the car, I used the head bolts instead of the rocker studs. I think this was actually a little better solution because I could put the chain really at the front and back of the engine. I didn't want to do that going back in though because I didn't want to mess up the head gasket tightening. I think I'd do it that way again to remove, assuming the engine is coming apart.

I also was able to remove the engine and trans from the car with the shifter installed (the Bentley manual doesn't mention removing it). However, I chickened out when we put the engine back in and I removed the shift lever.

Good luck,
Rob



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-01-18 07:53 PM by robcadle.


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