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grille mounting sequence

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carbuf60 Frank Flynn
Beverly Hills, MI, USA   USA
I am a new member with a '67 BJ8 and would appreciate any help regarding the sequence for mounting both the grille & eyebrow using the threaded rods (with welded nut in the middle). I am aware of the tabs at the opening and how to get the grille in through the wheel well, but my car was apart at time of purchase, so I am a bit lost. Thanks

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rickyspridgett Avatar
Colchester, CT, USA   USA
I looked in the official Austin Healey 100-6 3000 manual, and there are no pictures for illustration in the Bodywork section. (P)
it says to "dismantle" the grill:
The grille is secured at 8 points, all easily accessible from beneath the car. Three 1/4" U.N.F set pins will be found at the top and bottom of the grille, while 1 3/16"U.N.F set pin is located each side.

that's pretty much it. it would be nice if there was a drawing of some sort.....

RZ

climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
Frank - attached are photos of the bolt sequence that I encountered when removing the grill and surround from my BJ7. I recall not having a great deal of difficulty removing the grill and surround, but had not encountered the type of bolt set used anywhere else on the car. The photos will show where I found various bolts. Not all are original. Putting things back together was a challenge especially when trying not to marr body paint. It took several attempts to get the front facade in place correctly. I'm trying to think exactly what the sequence was but first went the outside rim, then the top chrome trim. That trim fits tight to the car I struggled getting it in place, but finally had it sitting correctly. The trick is getting it snug to the body. I then slipped the grill in from beneath worked it up and situated it to the bolt positions. I've got a full sequence of images. Use them to lay out the grill on a bench before trying to get is set up on the car. Your bolt set will be new. Use my photos for general reference. They maybe quite different but the images will help get you going.

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climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
Additional images on grill fitting.


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climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
More - these shots were taken of the bolt placements as I took the grill and surround out. You can see some of the double nuts used. Notice in the top image there are two nuts. The upper one is a double nut. The lower nut is a sort of sheet metal screw with coarse threads. This is centre position on the upper rim. Third shot is a lateral bolt, one on each side of centre position. Last one shows that center upper bolts - better image.


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climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
Final images showing bolts on BJ7. May not be fully original. Top image is centre lower. Notice the sheet metal style screw used in this position. Second shot - opening at start of project. That's all the images I have. Perhaps one final comment. The grill and surround in the first shot were cleaned up. I spent possibly 2-days of effort polishing the vertical bars on the grill. It was a tricky job, but the result was satisfying. Good luck.


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Stinky Robert R
Maricopa, USA   USA
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 "Stinky"
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 "Stinky"
Vince, may I ask what steps that you have taken to polish up that beautiful grill ? I will be polishing the one for the BT7 real soon , thanks Bobsmileys with beer

climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
Robert - it did come out quite nice, thanks. I don't have notes, so not sure of each step. Attached is an image of the original condition. Not a great photo but the condition can be seen. It was one of being very oxidized, shallow pitting and some wear-throughs in places. The struts are aluminum making the metal easily to worked and polish with various grades of sandpaper. I would have started first by using furniture grade steel wool to test the surface and how aggressive I could be in bringing up the shine. I remember well wondering just what might be possible. Next would have been using progressively finer sandpaper. Again, I don't recall the first grit, but it would have something like say 400, then 600 and on to 1000 grit. Likely not coarser. The final polish came with a very careful polish on a hard fabric wheel (black polish stick - also red). This needs to be done with care going with the "grain" - lengthwise along the verticals rather than across. This way if something catches the wheel it slips off rather than coming in contact with a cross piece. My suggestion is to start with 3-4 verticals and work them up to get the feel for working which grits are needed. Start with a finer rather than coarser grit. If it doesn't seem to clean up well or remove the small pits then try someting a bit coarser. The idea is to not introduce grit cuts that can not be readily sanded or polished out. Then - lots and lots of time. I recall many hours. It will go well, it will just take time. You'll be amazed at how well it will come up especially after getting inside the front faces, cleaning the tops and bottoms of the grill and doing all sides of the verticals. Lastly, the struts are thin so watch how much metal is removed. The small holes you see my grill were in the grill at the start. How they got there is a mystery. Perhaps someone trying to do what I achieved.


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Stinky Robert R
Maricopa, USA   USA
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 "Stinky"
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 "Stinky"
Thanks Vince, I know that it will take time and a lot of patience, but in the end it will be worth it,thank you much for sharing how it was done.smileys with beerthumbs up

climbingshuksan Avatar
climbingshuksan Vince Poulin
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
You'll have to post a picture. One last comment. Working the grill provided the opportunity to straighten some of the verticals. I had several bent slightly out of shape. I did not do this, but a good idea might be to make up a spacer and use it to get the verticals equi-distant apart. If any are out of alignment this will make a world of difference in the final look. I'm pretty good with eye-balling such things, but maybe not a bad idea for you. I sort of recall the spacing changes just a tad as the verticals extend outward from the centre.

My day was spent getting the passenger's side rear leaf spring back on the car. Driver's side tomorrow - then new hubs to take 4-new wheels and tires. Back on the road early next week.

carbuf60 Frank Flynn
Beverly Hills, MI, USA   USA
Thanks to all that chimed in with the wonderful photos and advice. Unfortunately, most of this information came after my 5 hour installation session and I sure could have used it. I think I got most of it right with no marks on the new chrome but the threads would have made it so much easier. When I have a moment, I will post my experience!

Nokesville, VA, USA   USA
Great photos and advise. I am reading this not for the grill which will be done but because I am trying to figure out how to get to the mounting hardware for the front badge that I want to remove for resto on my late 67 3000 mkIII

Does anyone know if I need to remove the grill to get to this area or is there another path?


And my fresh air hose on the driver’s side has disconnected itself from the firewall. Does the reconnect require removing the wing for access?

Gary H

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