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Removal of original adjustable steering wheel - Mark 3 3000 BJ8

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kene66 Ken Elm
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK   GBR
Could someone please point me in the direction of a "step by step" removal/replacement of the steering wheel and trafficator on my BJ8?

I have found some text only "guides" but nothing with pictures.

I am fairly new to all of this and want to do as much research as possible.

Many many thanks.

K

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petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Hi Ken,

You can find detailed step by step instructions in the Factory Workshop Manual, Section N.30 pg N.21, so
if you don't own one get it as soon as you can. It was the first thing I bought after getting my car.

You'll have to remove the grill so you can get at the 4 small wires at the end of the steering column stator tube.

Disconnect those wires and tape them all together so they will slide back into the stator tube,
they will have to be pulled all the way out into the cockpit.

You may need to cut off the soldered bullet terminals on a couple of these wires so they'll all fit back inside the stator tube.
That's what I had to do.

Be sure to attach a wire or heavy string to this bunch of wires so you can pull it back down through the tube for reinstallation.

There are 3 small set screws around the circumference of the steering wheel boss,
loosen them and pull the horn/signal switch out slowly,
take notice of the slot in the stator tube and the indentation in the small tube attached to the horn/signal switch.
These need to be in alignment when reinstalling the switch.

You should have the switch and pigtail in your hand at this point.

Good luck,
Peter Carbone


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Horn Assembly.jpg

kene66 Ken Elm
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK   GBR
Thanks Peter. Very much appreciated!
K

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Triumph05 Ken Mutch
USA, IA, USA   USA
I have removed the 3 small set screws around the circumference of the steering, also took the nut off the bottom on the steering box. How hard is it to pull control head assembly out of the tube? I am afraid of damaging the turn signal assembly. Could it be rusted in the down tube, I believe I have the adjustable wheel.


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Triumph05 Ken Mutch
USA, IA, USA   USA
My AH is a 1960 BT7 mark 1 not a BJ8

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Ken,

By the looks of that steering column they could be rusted together.

Try to get some penetrating oil in there as best you can.

Remove the Allen Head Set Screws and squirt some oil in those holes.

The wires and Signal Light Assembly should slide right out, at least they did on my BT7.

rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, CA, USA   USA
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 "RUBY"
1963 Chevrolet C10 "Rusty"
Ken,
You do have the adjustable steering wheel as evident by the large black collar on the back side of the steering wheel. In your case you don't have to remove the lower part of the stator, the olive (ferrule) and the retaining nut. You stator tube is a two piece unit and when you withdraw the upper portion of the trafficator only the upper portion of the tube will come out with the wires. But do as Peter C. suggests and attach a string or wire to the wiring harness to ease in re-installation.
I had problems trying to remove my trafficator as the inside of the stator tube had rust build up inside and kept the wiring harness from being extracted. There was a little bit of movement in the harness so I filled the stator tube with rust dissolver. I then got someone to help my to pull the wiring harness back and forth until the rust dissolver finally loosened the rust and I was able to remove the harness from the stator.
Peter D.

Triumph05 Ken Mutch
USA, IA, USA   USA
How did you get the rust buster in the tube? From the top or bottom? I can not get the turn indicator switch to come out at all/

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
This is the connection that may be rusted where the Signal Light Assembly slides into the Stator Tube.

Remove the 3 set screws that hold the SLA in place and squirt oil in those holes.

Hopefully gravity will help it run down into the slot and loosen things up.


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petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Ken,
You may have to remove the olive at the end of the Stator Tube (ST) then introduce some vibration
by tapping on the end of the tube so it moves into the Steering Column.
A propane torch should help loosen the olive.

Use a block of wood to prevent damage and see if you can get the ST to move.

Try twisting it back and forth with some pliers but don't go wild.
Keep applying penetrating oil and tapping with a small hammer.

Remember the ST does come out of the steering column so it should move inside the column.

When I removed my Signal Light Assembly (SLA) the ST came out with it because the nut was loose at the olive.

If you can get the olive off you may be able to pull the SLA and the ST out all at once.

Triumph05 Ken Mutch
USA, IA, USA   USA
Peter,
The olive nut is that the brass sleeve on the bottom of the steering box? ( on the stator tube which the wires come out of ) How do you remove the sleeve?( apply some heat at the sleeve? ) Does it slide off the tube? The tube turns with the steering wheel so if I try to tap or wiggle the tube is what you are saying. Maybe if I made a clamp out of oak, clamp around the sector tube and allow the wire to hang to the side I maybe able to free the tube. I am proceeding with caution I do not want to damage anything.
thanks Ken


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steering box.jpg

rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, CA, USA   USA
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 "RUBY"
1963 Chevrolet C10 "Rusty"
Ken,
The little brass olive (ferrule) does slide off of the tube. I would be very careful using a propane torch as you might damage the wires inside the tube. In your photo it appears that there is some build up on the portion of the tube below the olive. I would suggest that you clean this up as much as possible with a wire brush or a piece of emery cloth. This will help the olive come off and the tube slide through the fitting that holds the olive. Also clean the olive up as much as possible, I think that the olive has a split in it and you may be able to insert a small screwdriver into the split and turn it. This would in effect spread the olive and allow it to slide easier over the tube. Another option is to remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering box cover in place and try to remove the cover and the fitting that retains the olive as one unit.
Peter D.

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Ken,
The olive should slide off but you have a lot of corrosion there so proceed with caution.
I think you can purchase an olive if it gets scratched.

It looks like the same type olive used in compression fittings so you can get another one depending
on the diameter of the Stator Tube.

Grab the olive with some pliers and rock it back and forth and keep pouring the WD40 to it.You gotta get some oil down inside that steering column from the top.

Sand the part of the tube that is sticking out to help get the olive off.

Triumph05 Ken Mutch
USA, IA, USA   USA
Thanks guys I have restored and worked on many street rods and domestic vintage autos but this is my first British auto. I have, however, had and restored several Triumph motorcycles. Along with the Austin Healey I am doing a 1954 Triumph Terrier, which has been a work in progress for a few years.


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Mike Barone Houston Avatar
Mike Barone Houston Mike Barone
Houston, TX, USA   USA
Two minor observations:

Once you remove the olive, give it a day to let the steering box oil drain. It's messy otherwise.

I did not need to pull the grill on my '62. Enough room to gingerly pull the wires apart. PB Blaster the day before helped, I think. Nothing broke.

In addition to taping the wires together, include a fish line. I used weed eater cord. Once I pulled it through, I cut the cord 12" beyond the steering wheel. Once the new wheel was on, I taped the cut line together and pulled it back through.

Ok, #4, when the tube is sticking out the end of the steering box, the assembly will spin. Put the olive on and push it flush. Then just one or two threads of the barrel nut. Go topside and push the horn/turn assembly into place and then tighten the barrel nut.

I did mine last week and it was not too bad. Just too many times getting up and down...

Mike

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