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Wiring harnesses

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Wiring harnesses
#1
  This topic is about my 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 BJ8
AlanWiedie Gold Member Alan Wiedie
Bolton, CT, USA   USA
Just trying to gather some info before starting my restoration. Assuming I replace all the wiring harnesses on the car, how many separate harnesses are involved in a car with overdrive?

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Storings John Niehaus
Eindhoven, Netherlands   NLD
Have a look at https://www.ahspares.co.uk or www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/ Good luck and enjoy.

AlanWiedie Gold Member Alan Wiedie
Bolton, CT, USA   USA
Thanks, John Those are both great sites. Another I have bought from for the Jag and MG is https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder. They make a nice harness at a reasonable price.

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rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, CA, USA   USA
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 "RUBY"
1963 Chevrolet C10 "Rusty"
Alan,
When I restored my Healey I purchased a complete harness from this company. They are here in the US and make harnesses that are to the original factory spec. I was extremely happy with their product . The also have any small accessories that you may need. I found them always ready to help when you have questions or a problem, very friendly and professional. The company is endorsed by the American Austin Healey Club. You can't go wrong. You will need the main harness, the overdrive harness, side lamp harness, cable from solenoid to starter, and the steering column harness.
Pete

https://www.britishwiring.com/

RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Hi Peter/Alan,

I used Rhode Island Wiring to rewrap my original harnesses back in the 1980s with original pattern weavings. Back then, it did a very nice job.

Alan,
If you are considering installing circuit protection (fuses), they may have some suggestions for either an additional fuse box or an in-line fuse approach. I chose an in-line fuse approach to maintain the original look (hid the fuses) but would now consider a central approach with an additional fuse box mounted incognito under the dash. In each case, a fuse directory indicating fuse replacement, functions protected, and location would be required to keep track.

This would be a good time to include these modifications in the new harnesses,
Ray(64BJ8P1)



Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2018-11-28 04:43 PM by RAC68.

AlanWiedie Gold Member Alan Wiedie
Bolton, CT, USA   USA
Thanks for your comments. Ray. I had completely forgotten about Rhode Island Wiring. Actually, I thought they were no longer in business. I used them many years ago to re-loom a dash harness that I had to revise from right hand to left hand (some wires wouldn't reach the gauges). Just checked their site and about fell off my chair reading their prices for AH harnesses! And many more harness listed for the car than other suppliers, unless I'm missing something.

Good information about fusing and something I'll look into and consider.

RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Alan,

How bad is your harnesses? I appreciate that new harnesses seem a goo approach but costly. My harness wires were good but presented a bad image. Having them rewrapped allowed me to keep the original wires, with their bends, that allowed reinstallation to be quick and easy.

Since then, I have added or changed numerous electrical components that are managed through the original circuits but designed to be easily reversed to original. This was possible by offloading power required for these additions to small separate wiring, some managed through relays and downgrading power draw on the original harness to low amperage switching function.

A good example is the installation of an alternator and the powering of high output headlights. Instead of the high power demand for the headlights flowing through the original harness (as original), main power is supplied to 3 relays (high/low beams and driving lights) directly from the alternator with the relays being switched by power running through the original harnesses. Reverting to original (concourse) would require the reinstallation of the original components and the unplugging of the additional small wiring additions.

So, do you need a new harness? If the wires are in good condition, consider having them rewrapped. They will look as good as new.



Just a thought,
Ray(64BJ8P1)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-11-29 02:23 PM by RAC68.


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AlanWiedie Gold Member Alan Wiedie
Bolton, CT, USA   USA
Ray,

Thank you for the additional thoughtful post. It makes me realize how little I know about electrical auto wiring and electricity in general. I'm going to give some serious thought to your suggestions and am sure I'll learn something in the process.

The condition of the wiring in my other three cars was pretty tatty, particularly the MGA which had been jury rigged so badly it was dangerous. I opted for new harnesses and it worked out well so far. I haven't assessed the condition of the AH harnesses yet but expect after fifty years it won't be good.

Very nice looking interior! I'm a long way from that that's for sure. Two questions about the engine compartment photo. The radiator hose clamps look like the ones from my '56 MGA. Did the Brits still use those in 1964? And what color is that on your radiator fan shroud? I heard there was some difference of opinion as to exactly that should be. Neat alternator mounting.

Alan

RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Hi Alan,

First, in many cases, the condition of the wiring is in its presentation and the actual wire continuity is often taken from its presentation. Keep in mind that the harnesses are wrapped in woven fabric that allowed water/moisture to drain and dry. However, heat and automotive contaminants can deteriorate this fabric over time … especially under the car and in the engine compartment where environmental conditions are at their worse.

When removing the original harnesses, be careful to maintain the bends and turns imbedded in each as this will provide you with a roadmap for reinstalling the rewrapped or new harness.

As I didn't like the look or complexity of most available mountings, I decided to create a mounting that was much simpler. Using the original generator mounting with a long bolt and spacer, a double pully on the alternator to provide forward pully alignment, and a new tension bracket mounted on the opposite side of side (inside) of the engine mount, the alternator provides ample amperage with a built in regulator. My original regulator is still used but only as a convenient power distribution block.

Not wanting to modify my original console when installing my Bose sound system, I decided to create a new console that was a little wider to easily accommodate the system. Tweeters are mounted on each end of the dash in small custom mounts, mid range speeders are installed on each side of the console in added side panels extending the sides of the console back to the heater plenum, and the woofer and its amp are mounted in the spare tire (sound is marginal when boot lid closed). Sound is full and its great to cruse while listening and really hearing the Beach Boys...really takes me back.

Last, the hose clamps are original as installed when I purchased the Healey new.

Keeping all original replaced components, other then the in-line fuses, every modification can reversed with reasonable effort back to concourse originality.

All the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-12-01 04:20 PM by RAC68.

Ken Gaidos Avatar
Nolensville, TN, USA   USA
You just have one short harness that goes from the firewall to the OD.

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