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Basket Case 1960 Bugeye with Rust... Hell no.

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Got it now... duh.

Oh well... at least all the parts are there... and CLEAN to re-do. It's just a PITA.

Someone warned me about this way early, but I'd slept since then. LOL

Thanks for the feedback.

BG

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Finally got it all straightened out and back on wheels for the first time in three years. Tons more to do.


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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
On your shock absorber arm before the rubber bush I put a small block of wood to raise
the arm off the rubber. Just to keep the rubber in good shape as it was quite a few months
after this before I got mine back on road. Looking good but you don't need two nuts on top of
king pin. Use a nyloc nut or a castellated nut. Nyloc use once,

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chicknor Avatar
chicknor Chick Knorr
Orangeville, PA, USA   USA
I have been driving British cars since my 1958 Morris Minor bought in 1962. I have 2 bugeyes, one usder restoration that started in 1972 and has most of the metal work done, the other is an old race car that I ran solo one events in the late 70s. My other car is a 1967 AH 3000 with 108000 miles. I bought it in 1970. The fuel pump quit the first year I had it and it happened at dinner rush hour in Baltimore. I jacked up the car and took off my shoe and hit it with the heel. The pump is still on the car. That is the only time I had a problem with it. The car had been sitting in my shop and later my garage for over 30 years with only about 50 miles put on it. I have just gone over rebuilding all the brake and clutch systems, replaced the water pump and rad. hoses, replaced 2 exhaust parts that I have had for nearly 40 years as well as replacing the carpet from several yards that I purchased from Moss about 30 years ago. Put new tire on it. I had replaced the bias ply tires that were on it in 1970 with Michelins. The rears looked like the day they were put on and the fronts were crack free but the tread was about 50 percent. Car I just great to drive and I have had no problems with any wiring even though the car sat that long. I was in the British car repair and restoration business for nearly 30 years and still do some work for certain customers. I found that a lot of the problems that people had like carbs that needed constant tuning, were the result of people not knowing what they were doing. I restored an MGB in 1985 and told the customer to keep away from the carbs. He still has the car, was on the front of cover of Sept/Oct 2010 MGB Driver mag, and he says the carbs have never been adjusted since I did them in 1985 and the car still runs perfectly. He is OCD so if it didn't run fine he would certainly let me know. My advise is that when you need things like the carbs and timing set, find someone with experience to do it for you. I know your daughter will have fun in this car. I am over the moon at driving my car after all these years (you've heard about the shoemakers children going shoeless, same applies to mechanics). I am now in the process of turning my race car into a street car as it is not that highly modified as the current race cars. Good motoring

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Thanks for the great story Chick and the good thoughts.

BG

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Quick update and question.

In all the years I've done restorations and having to use body shops one thing is clear. They never get it done quickly. Is it a world wide problem?

The mistake was to tell my guy... "no rush"... So, it's been there for almost two months now and I think this week it gets some paint.

He also had this favorite line "I didn't realize how much body work was involved....... " Hinting, for above our number to finish it.

Love his work and have had about 10 cars done over the years... so biting the lip lately.

Gave up on the hinged panel door for the rear tire compartment. Just going to do it the old way and reach back into the boot.

BG



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-08-27 08:12 AM by BigGeorge67.


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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Gawd... I'm starting to really hate body guys and painters that promise a ready date... and then come with the excuses when it's not ready

Anyways... out for a look today and the hood has been painted finally and the rest should be finished by this Friday. Fingers crossed.

Color is Dodge Ram SW-1 Stone White. It's got a slight tinge of color, but nothing as yellow as Old English Cream.

We shot it in Acrylic Enamel.. instead of two part to stay somewhat in league with original paints.

More to follow hopefully this weekend. 3 years so far and haven't put the motor in.

BG



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-09-16 10:57 PM by BigGeorge67.


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rrengineer Mike MacLean
Southern California, USA   USA
Ford Wimbledon White for 60s era Ford trucks is almost a dead match for OEW. Still widely available and relatively inexpensive. Fantastic transformation from what you brought home.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Thanks... if I had known how challenging in both time and money this little car was going to be .... Holy hell Batman.

My daughter begged me to "save that froggy car" and that was it, but what a journey so far.

Long way to go until the car is back on the road. This will be my last anything like this.

BG

rrengineer Mike MacLean
Southern California, USA   USA
In reply to # 205251 by BigGeorge67
This will be my last anything like this.

BG

That's exactly what I said when I finished my 60 Bugeye back in 2000. Right now I am in the middle of a big Healey (BN2) restoration. Never say never.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
LOL... I feel ya.... A really great car guy and an Icon in our area... passed away recently.

He was a fit, spry, tough as nails 93 and working on restoring a 1915 Buick. He said the work kept him busy and he died in the shop he loved.

I'm not there.. but age and physical are starting to catch up after all those years of abusing my body.

BG

AN5L32999 Bob M
Temp, AZ, USA   USA
I'm sorry my reply is over a year old, but perhaps you or others can nonetheless find some use in it. I've attached a couple pages from the west coast club magazine from at least 16 years ago (2002 or earlier), giving A-H paint codes. For the Sprites, it looks like Imperial Chemical Industries code 2122 would be what was originally sprayed at the factory. ICI was taken over, and according to the link below it was bought by Akzo-Nobel:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-jets-120/10940420-need-help-british-paint-codes-ici-codes.html

Good luck with your project.


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A-H Paint Codes.pdf    532.6 KB

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Thanks... and hopefully some can save that paint documentation.

This car is finally painted and ready for pickup this Saturday.

Long way from the starting line and seems like a lot further to the finish line.

BG


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acdoed Avatar
acdoed Mark P
Elizabeth Township, PA, USA   USA
Getting mine painted took nine months. Sherwin Williams Code 5027



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-09-21 01:51 PM by acdoed.


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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
I don't feel so bad now.. my rust work took about a year however.... Looks like we're starting about the same.

Picking up the car tomorrow... Got the garage cleared out and ready to roll... In AZ the temps are just starting to cool down.

BG

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