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BE Flapper Valve - How does this SOB Come apart

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
The cable at the end of this unobtanium BE Heater Cable to Flapper Valve appears to be a threaded screw that goes into a brass coupling / retainer. I have used PB Blaster for the past 3 days along with heat tonight trying to get it apart. Anyone got some clues as to how to get this bastard apart without damaging the cable. I'll keep soaking but this thing is hard to grab and hold and try to unscrew what appears to be a 5/16" nut securing the cable to the retainer. If indeed this is brass it theoretically should come apart.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

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Desert Rat Avatar
Desert Rat Chris S.
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Hey Jim,
The heater pull connects to the flapper with a trunion like the accelerator cable at the carbs.
If the trunion is stuck together, and if I remember correctly, it’s held into the flapper by a small screw and nut. If you loosen the screw and nut the trunion will come out of the flapper arm allowing you to move it away from the everything and make it easier to separate. Removing the fan assembly helps to get under the flapper to get at the screw and nut to release the trunion.



Agnes, an original, unrestored, unmolested 1960 Austin Healey Sprite Bugeye, bought by my father in 1961 from the first owner.


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A324EC46-D631-47DD-8061-BA80015DCCB3.jpeg

Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
Chris,

That's what I thought.But I think there are two really skinny nuts there. The top of the trunnion and the screw. Found a thin bicycle wrench that fits it it I can get the proper angle on it. And if nothing else perhaps I can bend the forks out that hold this trunion in place. Trying not to break the cable. Working upside down doesn't help matters either.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

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Desert Rat Avatar
Desert Rat Chris S.
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
From memory the trunion is held in place by an upper and lower fork that cinch together when the small screw is tightened. It’s been ages since I’ve had to mess with it, I’ll have a look after work and confirm and send pictures.
I was going to be in there anyway replacing the rubber grommets on the blower fan brackets.



Agnes, an original, unrestored, unmolested 1960 Austin Healey Sprite Bugeye, bought by my father in 1961 from the first owner.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-06 04:35 PM by Desert Rat.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jim,
I’ll be out of the country for another week or so, but I had 5 or 6 working heater switches/cables and the associated hardware. I think I salvaged a couple and lots of bits, so once I’m back I’ll check my stash. If you break something I probably have a replacement. I used a pair of needle nosed vise grips and a wrench to take mine apart and I think they are available new as well.
Rut

rhodyspit75 Avatar
rhodyspit75 Ernie Connor
Cumberland, RI, USA   USA
Why don’t you disconnect it from the heater box and blower and rotate it up where you can see what you are doing?

Desert Rat Avatar
Desert Rat Chris S.
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Hey Jim,
So I learned that my memory is crap. There is no small screw holding the forks together. I apologize for that.
The small screw and nut at the back of the flapper have a small bracket that holds the cable in place and keeps it inline with the flapper.
Between the forks I used a small needle nose to hold the nut part of the trunion and then a 1/4 socket to loosen the bolt that locks the cable into the trunion.
Pushing the knob on the dash in will move the trunion towards the engine to give you more access. If you need more loosening the heater control and pushing it behind the dash will expose it more.
The needle nose keep the trunion from spinning. Mine was tight but the ratchet broke it free pretty easily.
I didn’t take mine completely apart but here you can see the trunion and heater control cable. I put the needle nose in between the 2 forks holding the trunion in place.



Agnes, an original, unrestored, unmolested 1960 Austin Healey Sprite Bugeye, bought by my father in 1961 from the first owner.


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Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
Thanks guys, i’ll Get it out one way or another. Spent evening dropping the exhaust system. In order to get the LCB header clearance to come apart I had to pull the carbsxand loosen the exhaust manifold to get the header to come apart. What a pita that was.

In the mean time i’ll Keep marinating it.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

AN5L Ken G
Oklahoma City, OK, USA   USA
Jim,

Which headers do you have now, and which are you going back in with? Different brands of LCB headers fit better or worse. I have two Winner’s Circle, one Maniflow and one replica Speedwell installed in the Sprites, and all fit differently. The Maniflow header that went into the Innocenti Spider was probably one of the best fitting sets of tube style headers I’ve ever seen, but you mileage may vary. Now that you know the set up you have is a PITA fix it so you won’t have to deal with it again.

Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
This Set is from W.C. Nice header just up against the exhaust opening . When I pull engine will add a little bit of a relief there. Doesn't need much just about a 1/2" - 3/4" Notch just where the pipe touches the edge of the exhaust opening. Quick work with the angle grinder.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

AN5L8016 Avatar
AN5L8016 Mark Haynes
Nederland, CO, USA   USA
Jim- I found with my WC LCB, that wiggling it side to side didn't do squat to remove it, but wiggling it front to back was the trick once you have enough room for it. It fit fine right out of the box on my MKIIs 948, but with a large bore LCB, it might need that angle grinder...
I'll find out about my BE when I finish building the new engine, if a small bore LCB needs grinding to fit the early cars.



'58 Bugeye
'66 'Stang

Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
Mark loosening the top manifold bolts took care of it and it dropped apart. However it had only been together for about 6 months. Engine and tranny out tomorrow am and then i’ll See if heater cable will come apart. Took a break last two days.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

Jim Gruber Avatar
Riverview, FL, USA   USA
OK wanted to close the loop on two threads. Flapper Valve - Solution turned out to be carefully bend the ends of the arm open that holds the trunnion/cable stop. Extricate flapper valve cable and trunnion/cable stop.


Fire up the Dremel with a fine cutting Blade and slice very carefully so you don't touch the unobtanium cable. Reverse will be finding a new Cable Stop and bending ends of that arm closed shut hopefully not snapping off the arm ends.


W/C LCB Header. I installed the 5 speed with using the Paul A. method of shaving down the top of the 210 Tranny and using a shorter tranny rear mount than the one Gerard provided to me. this method puts the combination of the LCB Header in a totally different position than if used with a 4 speed Spridget Transmission. The guy that installed the engine and tranny did cut away the cutout in the floorpan to provide more room but there is still a fitment issue. And since I have been having an issue with Speed Bumps and the bottom of the car i.e. Tranny contacting the speed bump, no not the short speed bumps but those 3-4' long "traffic calming" bumps here is my proposed remedy.


Gerards Kit relieves the top of the bellhousing so the front of the tranny fits free and clear of the heater shelf. The Rear Mount for the tranny is much taller thereby raising up the rear end, fixing my low hanging tranny up front, and thereby also changing the orientation of the LCB Header as well so it will be centered more in the middle of the exhaust outlet opening. And hopefully that will also make the GR Starter not sit directly against the corner of the fenderwell. That's the plan Team.


As of Sunday, Engine and tranny are out. Wiring harness pulled back into cockpit, heater out, Horn Out, side supports for Fenders out. Still to come removal of MC and Wiper Motor. Removing the Engine and the 210 Tranny is far harder than with a 4 speed. Thanks Bob Hagan from here in Tampa for the load of an engine Crane as well as the Oberg Tilt / Lift. Could not have gotten this one done without that.


Stripping is proceeding, labelled plastic bags, After MC and Wiper Motor will finish tackling dash. As new wiring harness is being installed I marked what I could on things like the Genernator but reinstall will likely need some wiring help from this Team. Can I get to the painter by beginning of March. We'll see. Another thread will discuss some challenges I discovered in the boot.



Jim Gruber - Tampa/Riverview FL
Bugsy I - '68 Sprite w BE Bonnet - Gone but not forgotten
Bugsy IV - '60 Bugeye - 1,275+.040 and a 5-Speed - CA Car - 2nd Owner from new -
A truly rust free, garaged in Los Angeles for 57 years Bugeye

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