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Bugeye bonnet brace

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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
The brace part across the rear of the bonnet where the hinges go can rust through. I have seen them cracked. I replaced mine. Suggest check that area.

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grey1 Mike H
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
Yes, I can see some rust there. Will examine for cracks. One hinge is cracked and has a minor twist to it, thankfully not a big deal, but it all matters I am sure, when trying to get a proper fit when lowering the bonnet. I imagine that can take a while!smiling smiley

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
I suggest you look out for a good set of second hand hinges on a well know site! Useful spare. There is a lot of weight in that area when the bonnet is up. Watch when refitting hinge bolts you use the proper short ones on the bonnet side. There are slots in them to allow adjustments.

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grey1 Mike H
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
Thanks Eric, good advice!

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
I wend to far as to remove the cowl brace from the bonnet and re-enforced the backside so as to prevent cracks.



This is the front side, the weld is actually penetration from the other side burning the primer off. Yo can see where I drilled the spotwelds to get the brace off and then re-welded it back on.



In case there are any other pics you need on restoring a bugeye, here is a link to a photo gallery with about 500 pics covering the whole gamut.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2203663/1961-austin-healey-sprite/photo-gallery/


Pete

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grey1 Mike H
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
That looks very strong now, and great photos! I also found on this site, another member's blog "Dimadee" where he shows how he reinforced the hinges inside, along the sides. https://59bugeyesprite.wordpress.com/

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In the same vein, I also addef a backing plate to the top of the bonnet wheel arch. They often crack in this location

You an see the welded area in this picture. The backer was 16 gauge steel and took a bit of shaping with the shrinker.stretcher tools.








Pete

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grey1 Mike H
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
That's impressive Pete, and helpful. Unfortunately, I do not possess that skill set..yet. Do I see an Eastwood tool in one photo? What is that called, and what did you use it for exactly? Mike

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 207814 by grey1 That's impressive Pete, and helpful. Unfortunately, I do not possess that skill set..yet. Do I see an Eastwood tool in one photo? What is that called, and what did you use it for exactly? Mike

The tool is a metal shrinker or a metal stretcher. You can see it putting the curve into a piece of tin that was a straight L shape by shrinking ( or stretching) one of the legs of the "L"


By using a profile gauge (looks like a comb) from the old panel, you can decide how much you need to curve the new part



Here is the finished repair panel.



The repairpanel was just sheared and folded before being shrunk.stretched.



You can make a lot of repair panels using these thing, pretty much pay for themselves in the first few panels that you make. They are only like $125 or so for both. Not much skill required to do this stuff. The e-wheel on the other hand, yeah that one takes some doing to figure out!

Pete

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grey1 Mike H
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
Thanks Pete for posting those photos. Inspiring. Who knows, I may get there too. I mean you purchase 1 item from Eastwood and the emails follow with hundreds of great deals cool smiley

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