Greetings,
I'm looking at rebuilding the master cylinder on my 61 BE and want to understand the process to get it removed. The manual is not very clear on the removal process.

It seems I would want to disconnect the brake and clutch lines at the flair fittings, remove the two thru bolts on the master cylinder, and lift out the cylinder leaving the push rods attached to the pedals But it looks like the thru bolt on the bottom may not be removable without lifting the pedal box up. Or is there room to slide the bolt out with the pedal box in place? But before I can lift the pedal box up (if required) or slide out the master cylinder, I need to disconnect the brake and clutch tubing. My fittings are pretty corroded. I'll start soaking them with penetrate solution for several days but eventually I have to get a flare wrench in there. What's the trick? Do you need to remove the thru bolts first to lift up the master in order to get the flare wrench on the fittings? I'm sure this is a common task that many have done so I'm hoping for the step-by-step scoop. If I have missed a thread that discusses this, or if someone has assembled a "How To" document, let me know where to find it.

Much appreciated,
Ron

You've got it about right Ron, the pedal box needs to be lifted in order to get the thru bolt out.
Soaking the fitting with penetrating oil is a good idea too. I also use a brazing tip to apply direct heat to the nut with good results. Using a brake line tool is a must.
Good luck.

Ron,
Your biggest challenge will be removing the brake and clutch lines without destroying them, but new lines are available. Once the lines are off, either unscrewed or cut, just remove the bolts holding in the pedal box and pull it all out as a unit, rotating it for the pedals to clear the opening. Yours looks pretty good compared to the ones I’ve had and you can take this opportunity to clean and paint everything while you decide what to do with the master. My suggestion would be to send it to Gerard (Pixelsmith) to have it sleeved in brass to eliminate future pitting and to have it sized for either front discs or drums. Once you have everything out and disassembled, post some pictures of the brake/clutch pedal and push rod holes since both wear and create problems. The bolt/shaft that the pedals pivot on will need to be inspected for wear as well and greased before assembly.
Good luck, Rut

You need to remove the pedal box so that you can get the master cylinder out of it while leaving the lines attached. You then have much better access to the line nuts. Of course you will have to remove the line clamps from the bulkhead and flex the lines a bit.

Kurt

All,
Thanks for the reassurance and.the tips. I sort of saw what had to happen but your comments saved me from a lot of trial and error (mostly it's the error part that's dispiriting). Sure is handy to have advice from those that have been there and figured out the best way. Thanks again,
Ron