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Ribbed Case gearbox part orientation?

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Sparks Avatar
Sparks Stephen Hope
Witten, NRW, Germany   DEU
OK, you always think your being careful, numbering/labelling bags for all the parts you take out during the dismantling, but then you realise there are some parts that have some special cut-outs and you didn't note their orientation!

I have my ribbed case 1098 gearbox a part and have realised that the main shaft bearing housing which is pressed into the main case has a clearance cut-out on the inner face, I assume to clear the lay-gear or reverse gear cluster, may become obvious when I start to assembly again. Can someone please confirm the orientation of this housing.

Also the lay-gear shaft has a half moon cut on the front face of the shaft, again can someone please confirm its orientation.

Many thanks in advance for any answers.

Steve

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mdude58 Mike D
Nutley, NJ, USA   USA
Hi Stephen, the main shaft bearing housing is pressed in from the rear of the main case and has a flange that prevents it from going too deep. It only goes in one way.

The half moon shape on the end of the lay gear shaft fits in a pocket on the front cover. This limits rotation of the shaft once the front cover is assembled to the main case. You might want to inspect the pocket on the front cover, as over time there is a thin walled area that can get crushed/boken by the lay gear shaft, allowing unwanted rotation. New covers with a modern lip seal for the input shaft are available from Spridget Mania.

lewisracing Avatar
lewisracing Michael Scott
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
Disregard the below, I thought you were swapping, but it seems you are just rebuilding it.

Not sure if this helps answer your question, but this is a very detailed video on the swap, if you haven't seen it already. Perhaps they cover it:



Inherited my father's 1958 AH Sprite, currently restoring from bare metal and rusty parts out of cardboard boxes after 40+ years in storage.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-01-04 10:17 AM by lewisracing.

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refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
That video is terrible! They want you to do an incredible amount of unnecessary work to change the trans front cover when fitting a ribcase trans to a 948. This is totally unnecessary. All you have to do is change the engine backplate and use the right throwout bearing.

Also, the guy in the video must have said "um" 487,623 times. smiling smiley

In reply to # 208111 by lewisracing Disregard the below, I thought you were swapping, but it seems you are just rebuilding it.

Not sure if this helps answer your question, but this is a very detailed video on the swap, if you haven't seen it already. Perhaps they cover it:

hwyphd1 Avatar
hwyphd1 Silver Member Mike LaVigne,J
Moosic, PA, USA   USA
1970 MG MGB
I see this engine is blue I was told sprite only used green am I getting bad info

BMac Avatar
BMac Brendan MacRae
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
Mike - that 948 was out of a Morris Minor, not a Sprite - that's why it's that color.

Rick - I believe I said "Um" 487,624 times, thank you very much! spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

minimarc Avatar
minimarc Bob Marcum
BREVARD, NC, USA   USA
The original engine out of my 1960 Morris was a 948 painted green same as the engine out of my Bugeye.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Gold seal replacement gear boxes painted gold. There were silver seal replacement gearboxes painted silver.
Original boxes and engines green. The UK MoD did use BMC engines in military equipment. The engines
were normally low compression and painted a blueish green. Some of these found their way on to the market via MoD
surplus sales. But very rare I suspect in Sprites & Midgets.

pixelsmithusa Avatar
I'm coming a little late to the party, so you may have figured this out already, but Stephen's question, which was never addressed, is about the rear bearing housing orientation. The answer is yes regarding the cutout, but you also need to get the locating pin clocked correctly in order to position the rear extension correctly. If it's a little off, you won't be able to install the mounting bolts. As a side note, when swapping from a smooth to a rib case, in addition to using the right mounting plate and clutch components, you must also use the correct shifter. A smoothcase shifter will work in a ribcase, but it will be very loose and imprecise, not to mention having very long throws between gears, especially reverse.



Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


Sparks Avatar
Sparks Stephen Hope
Witten, NRW, Germany   DEU
Hi Gerard, Many thanks for your help.

I have another question on the laygear. I took out the old needle roller bearing, which appeared to be the original design, ie loose needles with end caps. When I went to put the new bearing in, which is 1 complete unit, the needles retained in a housing, the new bearing was too long. It is only 0.5mm below the end of the bore in the laygear. can you confirm that the new bearing does not need the safety ring on the end and just has free float in the laygear of 0.5mm towards the thrush washer.

Appreciate your help,

Steve

pixelsmithusa Avatar
Check at the bottom of the opening at each end of the laygear. You should find a spacer at the bottom of the bore that you can remove so the bearing does not protrude. This is why the bearings are made longer. I would not assemble it with the bearing sticking out. Also, you need to check the end float of the laygear fore assembling anything else. Depending on the year/version f the ribcase, there are two different specs for end float. Sprite MKII, III and Midget MKI,II is .001" to .003" (.026-.076mm). Sprite MKIV and Midget MKIII is .003"-.005" (.076-.127mm). Anything greater requires new thrust washers. There are different thickness small diameter thrust washers available from the usual suspects if you need a different thickness, which is often the case.

In reply to # 208539 by Sparks Hi Gerard, Many thanks for your help.

I have another question on the laygear. I took out the old needle roller bearing, which appeared to be the original design, ie loose needles with end caps. When I went to put the new bearing in, which is 1 complete unit, the needles retained in a housing, the new bearing was too long. It is only 0.5mm below the end of the bore in the laygear. can you confirm that the new bearing does not need the safety ring on the end and just has free float in the laygear of 0.5mm towards the thrush washer.

Appreciate your help,

Steve



Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


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