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SR20DET transplant

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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
In reply to # 202789 by Yankeedriver
In reply to # 202690 by Mark Smith I am back in the saddle again. I finally have some time and a little money so lets see how far I get. I bought some parts from Frontline which include front and rear shock kits and a 4 pot front disc brake kit. I also just ordered a fuel cell that I will have to modify my trunk for.

I started looking at my wheel openings and decided I needed to something different so I could get a better reveal so I bought some 1/4" tubing to add to the opening. I wish I would have used that before I started the first time but live and learn.

Oh I also had my driveline made.

Lookin' good, Mark! You're going to love the Frontline front suspension kit. I've had it for years, and it yields very predictable steering around corners over uneven pavement. My shocks are set to one click from the middle setting, I think, but of course your front end weight will be different with the SR200DET, hood and fender work, etc.

Can't wait to see her on the road!

Joel

Thanks Joel. I am guessing I have added around 300 to this car if not more with all the frame work, sheet metal and engine swap. Hopefully that won't be too much of a strain on it. I will have to see if I can find out how much the SR20 set up weighs. Can anyone tell me how much the stock engine and tranny weigh?

Did you leave the rear suspension stock then?

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 202801 by Mark Smith Thanks Joel. I am guessing I have added around 300 to this car if not more with all the frame work, sheet metal and engine swap. Hopefully that won't be too much of a strain on it. I will have to see if I can find out how much the SR20 set up weighs. Can anyone tell me how much the stock engine and tranny weigh?

Did you leave the rear suspension stock then?

Mark,

Yes - my rear axle is stock, save for: (i) 3.9:1 differential from a later model Midget; (ii) tubular gas shocks; and (iii) my DIY rear disc brake conversion. I plan on adding traction bars when the supercharger is in play, late Summer or in the Fall. Some of the existing offerings look pretty nice but I might weld up my own.

I have lowered, stiffer (340 lb.) springs up front and urethane bushings. I ended up using new stock leaf springs in the rear because with the lowered front springs and an adult in each seat, the car sits perfectly flat (slightly nose down without anyone on board, as in the attached picture), and will j-u-s-t clear your typical parking lot speed bump without crushing the header and intermediate pipe under the body pan. I guess that won't matter when I add the air dam, which will limit clearance to 3" (second pic). But for 'high center' purposes, lowered springs up front and stock leafs aft works well for my street sleeper project.

I don't have a scale capable of handling that kind of weight, or I'd weigh my 1275 and Datsun 5-speed for you. The drivetrain is presently out of the car for rebuilding but still bolted together, as I'm getting ready to take pictures of the DIY supercharger setup bolted onto the engine before tear-down.

Joel


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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
Where did you get that front air dam Joel?

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 202814 by Mark Smith Where did you get that front air dam Joel?

It's from Spridgetech. They have two widths, one for racing cars with fender flares (see first photo) and another for stock width fenders, which he designed for limited production SCCA racers (the one that I bought).

Owner of Spridgetech is Dave Craddock. He'd obviously have detailed info on which is best for your custom fenders. preres@sbcglobal.net

Also attached is a pic of the back of mine. But you can see I've yet to trim and dzus-fasten it to the sheet metal. I'm going to cut a slot in the flat portion to match a slot cut in the valance just below the grille opening to feed the lower part of the intercooler (last photo).

Let me know if you need measurements or anything. It's a well-made piece of kit, though. Very stiff and sturdy, though I was thinking of making special welded mounts that would emerge through the OEM bumper holes and have a flat surface for additional dzus fasteners.

Joel



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-06-27 12:25 PM by Yankeedriver.


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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
That does look good installed. Not sure if I want to go without a bumper. I modified a bumper on a 65 fairlane that I built once so it was molded into the car and a cop gave me a ticket for it. He was a real jerk but I don't want any extra reasons to get pulled over.

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 202841 by Mark Smith That does look good installed. Not sure if I want to go without a bumper. I modified a bumper on a 65 fairlane that I built once so it was molded into the car and a cop gave me a ticket for it. He was a real jerk but I don't want any extra reasons to get pulled over.

Yeah, WA is pretty strict when it comes to regulations. Kind of 'CA light,' huh?

I have concluded that an air dam is a necessity if I want to go faster than 80. NM drivers overwhelmingly go 80~85 on the 75 mph freeway and divided highways, and you don't want an impatient F350 driver a car length from your rear end at 80 mph. Despite having lowered my car as far as possible without high-centering on speed bumps, digging the anti-sway bar into gas station driveways, etc., the front end gets noticeably light at these speeds. And then there's the notorious NM winds. Don't want to end up like James Dean.

What I plan on doing to satisfy the bumper requirements, is make up some nerf bars that bolt to the custom mounts discussed above, and have them chromed. Just little vertical steel rods with flat bar, perhaps with the bars canted forward slightly, perhaps not (parallel to the vertical dam may look best). Anyway, I will check out the code and talk to a state police watch commander about the final design, and see if I can create something that will avoid tickets while looking decent.

Joel


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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
I hate stopping to get gas so I bought a 15 gallon tank. It is going to take some work and I will loose half my trunk space but I think it will be worth it.


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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 203267 by Mark Smith I hate stopping to get gas so I bought a 15 gallon tank. It is going to take some work and I will loose half my trunk space but I think it will be worth it.

Looks nice. How will you route the exhaust? I've got a thread going on a roll-yer-own 1.75" exhaust, but I'm sticking with the stock gas tank (for now). https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,3553867,3766632,page=4#msg-3766632

Joel



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-07-09 10:15 PM by Yankeedriver.


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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
Joel I have no idea what I am going to do for exhaust yet. I may just end up doing a side pipe like I believe it was Ron suggested. I have time to figure that out.

(Fungus Corners) ? LOL



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-07-10 12:44 AM by Mark Smith.

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 203271 by Mark Smith Joel I have no idea what I am going to do for exhaust yet. I may just end up doing a side pipe like I believe it was Ron suggested. I have time to figure that out.

(Fungus Corners) ? LOL

Oh, definitely no rush to figure it out. I was just curious. A side-exit pipe would be very unique.

'Fungus corners' is the nickname that a longtime TV weather man gave to the Pacific Northwest. As you can see from the attached picture, it's d-r-y out here.

My family lived on the west side of Lake Washington, back when mere mortals could afford a home there. I think my dad paid ~ $18,000 for the house in 1960.

Joel


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High desert '67.jpg

CAMMO Cameron C
Brisbane, Queensland, Australia   AUS
So good to see you working on your car again! The SRdet is surprisingly good on fuel I found (dependent on driver style of course) All the best with the project mate!

Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
Thanks Cameron. It is good to be making progress on it again.

Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
Last test fit before final assembly of tank frame and floor. This was a lot more work than I anticipated. Maybe I should have went with a 10 gallon instead of 15 but it is too late now. I used 1x3” boxed steel for the main frame below the trunk and 3/4 for above. This should give a little extra protection in case of a rear end collision. That is if something else sits that low. I wish now that I would have found a tank with the fill neck on top the tank instead of the side. That would have made the installation much easier.


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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 203432 by Mark Smith Last test fit before final assembly of tank frame and floor. This was a lot more work than I anticipated. Maybe I should have went with a 10 gallon instead of 15 but it is too late now. I used 1x3” boxed steel for the main frame below the trunk and 3/4 for above. This should give a little extra protection in case of a rear end collision. That is if something else sits that low. I wish now that I would have found a tank with the fill neck on top the tank instead of the side. That would have made the installation much easier.

True, but at least it tucks up in there nicely!

Joel


Member Services:
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Mark Smith Avatar
Graham, WA - Washington, USA   USA
A little more welding and it will be all sealed up in the trunk. Now I have to figure out how I want to support the bottom of the tank.


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