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Spritey Avatar
Spritey Silver Member Ian Cassley
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
Hi Terry,

Not sure how close the 100-6's boot is to the 3000's but perhaps check Matthew Randell's Youtube log of his restoration... Mathew Randell's videos. Can't remember what episode the boot repair is in but these are worth a watch.

Cheers

Ian

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mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
Had a look at the bj7 boot .looks to be a bit more metal left .might get an idea how it is suppose to look from it.I guess the best I can do is repair what I can and the rest might follow.I took some pics of them both .Placed the rear panel on to give me an idea .Terry


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mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
more pics

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mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
more


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mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
Thanks Ian .I was in his site today.Not sure what I can get though as his boot was in a lot better shape so he didn't have to do very much. You must be watching my thread.LOL hows the frogeye coming,Terry

mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
Had another look at M Randalls restoration videos.He does show the boot floor in some detail.All 4 corners of my cars have the lower front of the rear inner fenders rusted away.They round down and then ahead til they go up at a 90 degree angle I think, Id like to redo that lower metal but need the measurements of the bit that is cut out.Anyone know the measurements,or where I can find them? Terry


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mpinco Mark Preston
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Might help to have pics of the repair/patch panels which would give you a good perspective on how each panel is shaped and/or area built. Take a look at Kilmarten:

http://www.kas-kilmartin.com.au/KAS%20Austin%20Healey%20Parts%20Description.htm

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rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, CA, USA   USA
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 "RUBY"
1963 Chevrolet C10 "Rusty"
Terry,
Hope this helps regarding the trunk floor. I had the same issues with the trunk (boot) and the rear inner fender panels . I added some new metal to the bottom inner fender panels that extended below what I would need. I then reinstalled the rear fenders. I traced the curvature of the lower part of the fenders on to the excess metal that extended below the bottom of the fender and added 1/2". The extra half inch is so you have the ability to fold the edge of the inner panel over to make a 90 degree lip. This lip will fit on the inside of the shroud when it is remounted. I then removed the fenders and formed the lip using a hammer and dolly. I then installed the rear shroud and checked for fit over the edge of the lip and you can now mark the location of the lower mounting holes of the shroud on to the new metal that you have welded in. If you look at the pictures I have posted you can see where the new metal has been added to the bottom of the inner fender panels. Sounds a bit complicated but I had both sides done in an afternoon. I also fabricated new inner right and left trunk boxes the battery cable panel and new pieces that finish the trunk floor on either side of the gas tank opening. The opening in the trunk floor is necessary for the bottom of the fuel tank which has a protrusion on it and a drain plug can be accessed from underneath the car.
Pete


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bobs77vet Avatar
bobs77vet bob K.
northern Va, VA, USA   USA
its like a grown up easter egg hunt.....nice progress

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mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
Easter egg hunt ,that's sometime in April .WARM well at least warmer, Bob I just had a look at the before and after thread ,hard to believe your coupe came from that to what it is now,I cant find any pics of my coupe when I started or I would post that too.Mark and Pete thanks for the info .Had a look in Kilmartin to see the shape of the boot floor and Pete the second pic reveals lots
I didn't know.Esp how those 3 bits attach to the boot floor,Terry

Spritey Avatar
Spritey Silver Member Ian Cassley
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 198952 by mg1622 Thanks Ian .I was in his site today.Not sure what I can get though as his boot was in a lot better shape so he didn't have to do very much. You must be watching my thread.LOL hows the frogeye coming,Terry

Watching your thread with great interest. As for my Bugeye not much has happened. I have acquired a bunch of parts; brake lines, wiring, fuel lines, etc. Just about ready to mount it up on the rotisserie.

ian

Rob Glasgow Avatar
Lompoc, CA, USA   USA
Here's a tip. After installing the boot floor but before you weld the center diagonal brace (the one with the holes) to the floor, temporarily install the rear shroud. You need to make sure the rear lip of the floor panel matches the bottom of the shroud lip. You may need to force the floor down or up to meet the lip of the shroud and then weld the brace to the floor. I didn't test fit the shroud before welding the brace and the floor lip was 1/2" below the shroud lip when I finally installed it. Wound up having to cut the weld loose and push the floor up and reweld. Unfortunately I also had to repaint the repair. Lesson learned.

mg1622 Avatar
mg1622 Terry Armitage
Sundre, AB, Canada   CAN
Thanks Rob ,good tip .Is the shroud attached to the boot floor ? Screws? Rivets? Terry

rusty1c Avatar
rusty1c Peter D
Antioch, CA, USA   USA
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 "RUBY"
1963 Chevrolet C10 "Rusty"
Terry,
The boot floor was originally attached to the rear shroud at the bottom lip using solid aluminum rivets. I found the best way to test fit was to hold the shroud to the boot floor at the lip using 2-3 pairs of vice grips with paint stirring sticks under the jaws to eliminate damage to the aluminum. When you test fit the trunk latch support always test fit the trunk latch striker and the latch mechanism on the trunk lid to make sure they engage. I ended up having to install a spacer under the striker to raise it up so it would engage the latch on the trunk lid . I also had the same problem that Rob did with locating the latch support, fortunately it was prior to paint.
Pete

Rob Glasgow Avatar
Lompoc, CA, USA   USA
Yes, the bottom shroud lip and boot floor are attached by multiple rivets along the bottom. Originally they were flat topped rivets that needed to be "smashed" on the inside. A lot of folks just use pop rivets since they are much easier to install. Here are some photos of my rivets and home made "smashing" tool.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-14 10:49 AM by Rob Glasgow.


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