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Quick oil question

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SteveT3000 Avatar
SteveT3000 Steve Townsend
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, UK   GBR
Not wanting to start a great oil debate but I would welcome the collective wisdom of this forum on a little question. I am using a semi synthetic oil in my BJ8 and always change the filter each oil change. I do on average 3 to 4 thousand miles a year. The oil on the dipstick is always clean and I don't need to top up at all between changes which I usually do once a year. I know that the book says more frequently but that would have been based on mineral oils. My question is if I'm ok to do the change once a year, usually before the 'season' kicks in, or more frequently?

Also how often do you guys change g/box and axle oils?

Thanks.Steve.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-11 04:19 AM by SteveT3000.

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NaDaDawgRacer John Jones
Waxhaw, NC, USA   USA
You are good on your engine oil change schedule. I recommend minimum of once a year even if you don’t drive the car because it absorbs moisture. I change my gearbox oil every two years. I have been preaching this schedule for some time and finally got a friend to change his who said he couldn’t remember if it had ever been changed. His response after was “wow I can’t believe how much better it shifts”. I now think that the diff should be on this 2 year schedule as well. I don’t have any real good justification but it doesn’t cost much. I change the trans and diff oil in my race car after every 3rd race weekend due to the extreme heat generated even thou I use a very good high performance synthetic oil.
John

Jack T Avatar
Greensburg, PA, USA   USA
I think once a year for the engine is plenty, every 3-5 for the gearbox and diff. I make it a point to change my engine oil in the fall so that any contaminants from combustion are not sitting on the bearings all winter.

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petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Valvoline 10-40 is all I've ever used in my engine for the last 45 years and no problems.

Generally I change it every 2,500 miles along with the filter.

Such a small price to pay for peace of mind.

I remember going to a Grand National Drag Race in Sanair, Quebec
and seeing cases and cases of empty Valvoline Oil cans next to the Top Fuel Dragsters
so I figured if it's good enough for an engine that makes 8,000 hp it's good enough for me.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-11 01:37 PM by petnatcar.

SteveT3000 Avatar
SteveT3000 Steve Townsend
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, UK   GBR
Peter I hope that's a brand recommendation and not saying you change your oil every 45 years!!

Jack T that's a good idea although I still use mine through the winter on no salt days so it's not standing for long.

Thanks. Steve

petnatcar Avatar
petnatcar Silver Member Peter Carbone
Watertown, NY, USA   USA
Oooooops! Good call Steve.

NaDaDawgRacer John Jones
Waxhaw, NC, USA   USA
Are you using Valvoline VR1? It has sufficient zinc vs the standard Valvoline oil. 45 years ago all oils had plenty of zinc.
John

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RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Hi Steve,

Having owned my 64 BJ8 Phase 1 since new and having used it for everything from family car to club events, I can state that my choice of oils and the changing schedule was determined by the motor oils available and the acceptable recommendations at the time. When the Healey was new, Esso 10W30 mineral oil was the accepted selection and today Mobile1 15W50 (designed for classic cars) is what I prefer. My Healey use is much less frequent today and have chosen Mobile 1 for its viscosity profile, additive package (includes sufficient ZDDP), and synthetic consistency. With mileage of over 100K and without a major engine rebuild, the Mobile 1 provides a viscosity profile that allows reasonably easy cold weather starts and a flow resistance during extended hot weather operation to maintain a pressure of between 40 to 50 lbs. In the past 2 decades, my Healey use has fallen to under 5K miles on an all year, nice weather, basis. With this usage, it is important to have an oil that will maintain a film on vulnerable internal metal surfaces and the synthetic Mobil1 is advertised as one of the top performers in this category. At present, I change oil and filter at the same time once a year at the beginning of the driving season and have infrequently needed to further top off the level between changes.

Transmission and differential are both lubricated with synthetic oils from Red Line and changed very infrequently. Although providing smooth OD and shifting performance, I occasionally check the trans fluid level for assurance as the Red Line does have a tendency to find its way out through any seal crevice.

My thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-12 05:30 AM by RAC68.

San Jose, CA, USA   USA
I use full synthetic oils--Redline--in both my BN2's and BJ8's gearboxes and differentials. I'm of the opinion that the gearbox oil is good for 50K miles or more, and the diff oil is good for 100K, but I usually have to drain more frequently for other reasons, at which time I install fresh oil. For comparison, my Mustang's shop manual recommends a diff oil change at 150K miles--some new cars have 'lifetime' diff oil--and the gearbox, well, I'm not sure; I've changed it once in 135K miles (full syn, which I put in after a couple thousand miles on the car when new to improve shifting).

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RichBN6 Richard Wetjen
Federal Way, WA, USA   USA
I'd be careful about comparing newer vehicles to our Healey's. The materials and tolerances in new engines and drive trains have improved drastically over the decades. I just finished rebuilding the diff for my project. It had 70K miles on it and I suspect the oil had never been changed. The amount of crud that came out of that thing was amazing. My plan, once I get the project finished, is once a year on the engine and every other year on the gearbox and diff. Also, you should always change the engine oil before a layup not after. Used engine oil, regardless of type or viscosity, builds up an acid content. Leaving it in the engine for an extended period can cause pretty significant damage. Boat guys can tell you all about this.

San Jose, CA, USA   USA
re: "The materials and tolerances in new engines and drive trains have improved drastically over the decades."

So have the lubricants.

RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Good advice Rich,

I consider the standing condition somewhat mitigated since I do tend to take the Healey for a short drive at least once a month. However, since most Healeys will be used infrequently and will be standing for prolonged periods, the effects of acid will be difficult to eliminate completely. It is another reason to use an oil designed with a package of additives for Classic Cars and one reason I switched from 20W50 synthetic VR1 Racing oil properly designed for periods of very active use.

Ray(64BJ8P1)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-12 07:54 AM by RAC68.

sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Steve,

The Healey in-line six like most in-line sixes is practically bullet proof, just about anything you run in it is going to be fine. In the Healeys I've owned over the years I've run everything from 30wt non-detergent to 60wt racing, but generally what I run in my cars is Castrol 20/50 since the sixties it's been known as the sportscar oil.

SteveT3000 Avatar
SteveT3000 Steve Townsend
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, UK   GBR
Thanks for the responses, all very re-assuring. One point is I'm not sure the oils this side of the pond have the same formulation as those available t'other side? I hear that Mobile 1 is quite different here and some of your brands are not so easy to come by in the UK.

I'm using Millers Sport 20/50 which is a semi synthetic and supposedly of good quality here in the UK, used by several of the known AH specialists in both engine and g/box.

I think annual oil change and gearbox/axle every two seems a fair compromise. Like Ray my car gets used all year which I guess helps.

Thanks again all.

RAC68 Avatar
RAC68 Raymond Carbone
NJ, Jersey Shore, USA   USA
Hi Steve,

My first indication of Mobile1 was on this forum when a member indicated his use of Mobile1 10W60. At the time I was using Valvoline Synthetic 20W50 Racing and found my original starter {rebuilt many years ago) dragging on cold weather starts and was considering its replacement with a Gear Reduction Starter. Since the UK version of Mobile1 was 10W60, I thought I would give it a try as it would have great cold weather starting and also maintain pressure during long summer runs. The 10W60 viscosity profile was not available in the US but a 15W50 version with the same package of additives for older version engines was available. I tried the 15W50 and found my unrebuilt engine started easier and quicker with faster turnover and maintained good oil pressure during extended summer drives. My thought was that the availability of the 10W60 version (as in the UK) would only be more beneficial, however, I can only speculate.

The cost of oils has increased quite dramatically and my purchase of a 5 quart container was between $26-$29. Since I would require around 7 quarts for my once a year oil change with filter, I would usually buy (3) 5 Quart containers and 2 filters at once and have enough for small top-ups. I use Red Line synthetic MTL in my transmission and OD and change it every 5 year.

All the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1).

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