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Heading to Mongolia

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NaDaDawgRacer John Jones
Waxhaw, NC, USA   USA
Looks like there are going to be quite a few sleepless nites. No problem, you can always sleep on the plane.
John

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Rozzer Ashton Roskill
Sydney, NSW, Australia   AUS
Panic not - the dispatch date is March next year not this year. Mind you before you know it it’ll be this time next year! All panels are now tidy and trial fitted so off to the paint shop tomorrow. Then the final fit up starts - and we have to get the roll hoop bash plate and roof sorted. Nearly there - Giles and various friends have been going like Trojans over the last few weeks....


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Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK   GBR
Hi there .
I admire your adventure and hope you enjoy it . A few tips - I have completed the Paris-Marrakesh in a 100/4 ( this did go through the Sahara) as well as numerous other long distance events Monte 3 times Norway twice etc. and from my experience would recommend the following

1) where the anti-roll bar joins the bottom link be sure to stiffen up the triangle of metal that the anti-roll bar joins with. I am still using the fabulous stiffened pieces fitted in Africa when both my pieces sheared off, I was running a stiffer anti roll bar but only around 3/4 inch do not go more than this.

2) if you are running a standard engine than you might be OK with the original gearbox but if you have a bit more go you definitely need to upgrade to the next generation side change. The original 3 speed will struggle even with a 100/M upgrade.

3) Ensure you have the block modified so that the standard leak above the distributor is eliminated . Its a usual Jeremy Welch mod. I don't know how your budget is but I would really recommend the Aluminium head from the Welch's.

4) The rear springs sag really quickly , I have fitted a pair of the so called rally springs after each endurance event but I am still struggling to find the ideal set up. At present I have a pair that are too stiff for long distance. The original BMC solution was multi-leaf that used the friction between leaves to give the right performance. I have yet to try the Rawles multi leaf version but believe they might have the answer.

5) Fit an expansion tank- it does help, I have also gone for waterless coolant but have found it does run hotter than water, however there is no pressure thus the forces on the block are less.

6) Fit dual fuel pumps separately switched, I have had failures on two events to date.

7) stick with the standard starter- My experiences with the pre-engaging high crank speed versions leads me to believe they are inferior.

8) Stick with the standard ignition that is coil and points. But do ensure you have external capacitors mounted outside the distributor. For some reason we cannot seem to get capacitors that do not fail in the heat. I have also switched to a Mallory distributor as the dual points do help things. I also have a second coil mounted so a quick switch to check the system is possible.

9) Fit a good in line filter for the petrol- the glass bowled items are quite good.

10) I have switched to front discs, I have completed many events on drums, but ultimately the joy of the rally is spoilt if at every major halt your time is spent adjusting brakes. I missed the Marenello ferrari museum due to this on my first Rome Liege. DO NOT in any event try the alufin brake drums. I tried the Southern Carburetter versions on an event with terrible results, they basically broke down, I complained to the manufacturer who stated they were for show not competition!!

11) I have fitted a rad Fan and an oil cooler, but he engine is full race so not sure if you need the lot.

12) Do not stick with the Dynamo, it is too heavy for the engine being an original truck item. Its weight will fracture its mounting bracket if rallied even if you go for the smaller fan belt and pulley scheme. Switch to the alternator and take the penalty points this may attract.

13) I recommend the retro-trip as a useful rallying addition, and would note that given the limited Healey space you can mount the trips into the dash with the electronic gubbins on the parcel shelve. This arrangement helps with the limited space.

14) I am sure you will but do but fit full race harnesses- it is much easier to control a sliding Healey when well anchored.

15) we have a Safety Devices roll hoop which fits inside the standard soft top and we strap the top too the cage when not deployed with a canvas cover, this does work well.

16 ) We have fitted small wind deflector side screens like cobras to the windscreen lowering mechanism, very good for desert sand deflection.

17) due to the full race engine we did run out of petrol on one Monte and have fitted a 20 gallon aluminium tank with filler on the back scuttle, with a more standard engine you will probably be ok.

18) we have fitted the full race Welch large bore exhaust and have modified the chassis and sill to suit, if you have the more standard engine most likely not necessary, but on our first Monte with standard rear exhaust this did catch a lot, suggest a good side exhaust is needed.


Hope this helps ,

best regards and good luck

Jeff Hooley

BN1 with BN2 and 100M mods CCC 399

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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thank you so much for your post Jeff - You give us a lot of valuable information, and also a lot of confidence, because a number of the things you mention we have already done. Whether we have done them "well enough" remains to be seen !!
1) Anti roll bar. We do not have one fitted. We felt that with the type of rough terrain we will be on (rather than good road handling requirements), we didn't need one. Just something else to break / go wrong. Are we incorrect ?
2) Standard engine, standard compression, completely rebuilt, with DWR alloy head. Gearbox is a 5 speed Celica W50 5 speed box - About the only non-period upgrade we are permitted in the P2P.
3) If the "leak above the distributor" is fixed by using the DWR head, then we will be OK as that is our head. If not, where is the leak from ?
4) Rear springs. We have fitted DWR 8 leaf "uprated" rear springs. We considered the next level up Rally Springs, but determined they might be too stiff. Our car certainly isn't sagging yet - At all !! All hangers etc are reinfored with gussets.
5) Yes, going with an expansion tank.
6) Dual SU pumps already fitted and separately switched.
7) Standard starter refurbed and fitted already
8) Got standard ignition and distrib. Got a second coil already mounted. Carrying a complete spare distributor that will have been run in the car prior to departure. Will investigate what you say about the capacitors.
9) In line fuel filter / water separator already fitted. Fuel tank sump plug is an aircraft style unit which you can push a needle in to and any water will drain into a little cup if present.
10) Can't switch to front discs on a BN1 - Not permitted. (Would love to !!) Have upgraded to the wider 2 1/4 drums though.
11) We have the 5 blade puller fan, have a modern core in the radiator which is moved forwards to give more space between fan and rad, and are inserting ducting in the front to ensure air goes through the radiator and not round the sides ! We have an oil cooler mounted inside the bottom tank of the radiator out of harms way, (it is actually a transmission cooler), but the lines into it are a bit small for cold oil, in our opinion, so we may not run it. Will see how we go in Australian heat next summer, and if we need to fit a separate oil cooler, we have the offtake lines to do it.
12) 65 Amp Bosch alternator already fitted !
13) Re retro trip - We currently have a Monit unit - Comments ?
14) Yes, full harness going in
15) We are working on the roll cage currently. Plan is to have it fit inside soft top
16) Was looking at the side wind deflectors - Not currently at top of list due to the number of other more crucial things to do, but certainly we are considering them.
17) Have a new alloy 12 gallon std tank (so there is no rust to break loose over the bumps !) and have built a second 8 gal tank that is separate and sits above the other tank, but further forwards (see pics further back in this thread). Have gone with a separate tank so that a) if we get dud fuel we can dump just one tank. b) If we don't need 20 galls, then we don't need to 1/2 fill a bigger single tank that would end up sloshing, we just leave the aux tank empty, and c) we didn't like the Works set up with the extra half tank and spare wheel out in the rear of the boot - Too much weight hanging out the back. So our 2nd tank is moved way up forwards, and the spare wheel is on top in the middle, with the base greatly reinforced, so it is over the top of the rear axle. Spare wheel mounts "hollow side" up, giving more storage space in there. Only lighter stuff will be in the boot. In the cabin, we have boxed in between the outer sill outriggers too, with access through the floor, and heavier tools and spares will be carried in there, keeping the weight low and forward as much as possible.
18) Have built a side exhaust, cuttng the pax door down by about 6 inches, and inserting lots of heat shielding round the pax cell (MY seat !!). Exhaust exits just behind pax door and in front of rear wheel.

And lastly, though you don't mention it, we have raised the height of our sump by 1 inch so it now sits above the chassis rails, and by removing the step at the front of the standard sump (only required for the donor Austin A90 anyway), have even slightly increased our oil volume. And a full length 3 piece under tray / skid tray is going in. And we have tubes welded into the chassis so we can use a wind up Mercedes jack which is not only quicker and lighter than a scissor unit, but also doesn't need to fit underneath the car - A PITA when you are bogged up to the chassis rails !!

Only problem we have now is where to mount all our Rally meters - Monit, Garmin, clocks etc !! I sat in the car the other day and realised there was no dashboard on which to mount anything ! So I am today in the middle of making up a new centre section for the dash on which to mount them all - Couple of template pics attached.

Anyway, really appreciate your input, Jeff. Any more ideas / Comments ? Maybe you should plan a trip to Paris on July 9th next year for the finish ???!!!!

Giles



https://austin-healeypekingtoparis2019.blogspot.com.au/
https://www.facebook.com/austin.healey.73113?


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Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK   GBR
Hi Again Giles
your preparation looks very good, just a few more points I missed.

1) yes we did fit a full length sump guard. We have now fitted the aluminium sump from DWR, but it is tighter to the guard.
2) surprised they allow a different gearbox and electronic trips but not front discs, as discs were fitted to the 100S in period.
3) I would still fit an antiroll bar not just for the handling, but keeping the car more level will also prevent body roll causing lowering of ground clearance.
4) presume you are aware that the arch profile at the front was altered BN1 to BN2. I should look at this as at full bump with the BN1 with lock on it is possible for the wheel to contact the arch ( this has happened to me and results in a crease in the front wing).
5) fit full profile tyres for extra ground clearance,
6) fit 72 spoke wheels if using wires- the 48 are too weak and I tried the I think its 60 spokes but rear spokes started to snap with the engine torque.
7) re petrol we get around 20 on the runs but only 12 ish on tests, hill climbs etc.
8) we located a small trolley Jack behind the passenger seat.
9) a lot of our driving has involved regularity, to help in this we have speed tables on cards in the dash centre, and I as driver also have my own stop watch.
10) suggest you carry spare wiper arm and blades, they do have a tendency to part company, if you can obtain the arms with a positive clamp to the wheel boxes it is a good improvement.
11) Carry a length of chain that you can put a bolt through. This is a useful item for emergencies, we got back from Marakech with a chain holding the engine up after the rubber mounts sheared,
12) you will probably find that the old healey vibrations will rattle most bolts loose around he dash area, you need the weak form of locktite to prevent this.
13) just remembered re the leak , I think the alloy head should resolve this, but from memory I believe Denis Welch also modded the top of the block. Sorry it was a long time ago re this mod and I cannot recall the full detail.



best regards
Jeff- PS photo attached


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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thanks Jeff.
1) Didn't see the point of the alloy sump from DWR or AH Spares because with the fins on there, it is the same height as the original, and therefore hangs down below the chassis rails. It also keeps the "step" in there, which I fail to understand.
2) Can't explain this one further.
3) Will look at an ARB.
4) Yes, we have cut quite a lot out of our arches and also the front shroud ! Our car was quite rusty as well as being heavily "bogged" to cover seriously damaged panels, so it was no loss to cut a lot of this away ! Saved quite a lot of weight too !
5 & 6) Our tyres are 195 / 80 / 15 on new 72 spoke wheels. That is about as high a profile as is possible !
7) We have based our calculations on 20 and 10 mpg, so pretty close.
8) Don't want a trolley jack for the same reason we don't want a scissor jack - How do you get it under the car if you are bogged ? Mercedes style jack is the way to go IMHO. Much lighter too ! Plus you must have more room behind the seat than we do, or maybe you are shorter than us ! We will have trouble fitting a packet of tissues behind the seats!
9) I hear you on the speed tables.........
10) Appreciate the tip on wipers.
11) Re chain, we are looking at either this or a strong wire cable to prevent engine movement if a mont breaks, fitted prior to departure so it is already in position.
12) On my 3rd bottle of locktite already, plus using nylocks and lock washers as well. Any nut that dares to come loose will get a severe talking to, I can assure you !
13) I will ask people at the local Healey club about this leak, and see what the know about it.

Thanks again for all your input.

PS We have a good friend with a 4 1/2 litre like in your photo. Must see if we can get a similar pic ! Having said that, there are 4 Bentley's of one type or another on the P2P.

Giles & Ashton



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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Jeff, do you have any detailed photos of your roll bar and how and where it is mounted ?
Thanks,
Giles



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Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK   GBR
Hi Giles,
well get some taken and post soonest,
best regards
Jeff

Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK   GBR
Hi Giles,
photos attached.
12 shows my dash arrangement as you can see I have demounted the retrotrip mileage counters and fitted into the dash to give the navi more room . I am 6ft 1. My navi 6ft 2 . But yes we can get a Jack behind us we still have the standard 100 bucket seats. Another good usable space is under the drivers legs. I have mounted harness eyes here to hold a good sized tool roll that I retain with rubber bungies. On the other side like you we have the fire extinguisher .

We have an ammeter visible to the driver but partially under the dash.

The roll cage is bolted to a new box section welded to the floor each side. Also the box section enables to harness eyes.

In the boot a plate was welded in at each side to reinforce the bump stops for the rear suspension and both rear stays and the cross brace interface to these two points. You will also see I have had a special tonneau cover made up that can fit around the bar. The bar height fits inside the standard hood frame, the bar does not form part of the hood support. I have had a canvas piece made up to cover hood and bar when the hood is not erected.

Re your tyre choice I am running 180 HR 15 XAS tyres by Michelin. These are full profile with no aspect ratio and do give further height advantage, you do need all you can get in a 100.

Hope this helps.

best regards
Jeff H

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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Thanks Jeff. For the roll bar we were hoping to avoid going through the rear shroud into the boot with the supports, and have a couple of forward sloping stays instead. Work in progress !!
Photo of our dash as it is now with a couple of the gauges mounted just temporarily. Can move them around as required. I decided I need to keep the grab handle because I am an old man and need help getting in and out !! Once I am in, I can mount a guage above the grab handle if I need the space. You can also see the extra upright on the LH side of the electrics box on the gearbox - That will hold another instrument, and on the top of it is the voltmeter and a little rocker switch to turn vmeter off and on. We still have the original "tray" behind the dashboard, and that has our USB sockets etc so everything can be plugged in easily. Also has a small 240 V inverter that is good for charging lap tops etc.

Also attach a couple of pics of the painted panels in their Coronet Cream. Really pleased with the way they have turned out considering my amateur panel beating status !!
Giles



https://austin-healeypekingtoparis2019.blogspot.com.au/
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Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Well, lots of small but time consuming things have been done recently, and we are definitely getting close to driving her.
I have created rear guard stone protection pads to try to cover up that cavernous rear wheel arch behind the wheel which is a real trap for dirt, mud and moisture - And therefore rust ! In fact the rear part of our rear wings had to be rebricated after the rusty bits had all fallen been cut off ! I looked at the option of filling the space with closed cell foam, and even fitting oil/water tanks in there, but in the end I reckon the rubber protection just about covers the void and should be ok. Mud flaps fitted below the protection bits.
We have gone with black rubber piping between the panels instead of the original metal / chrome pieces, a) because it was cheaper, b) because it may limit corrosion between the dissimilar metals, and c) because we reckon the black piping sets off the Coronet Cream bodywork really well. The CC is really growing on us - With the black interior and black trim, we reckon it comes up really well.
The paint job came up remarkably well despite my extremely amateur capabilities in panel beating / bogging ! Very pleased with the result, and as there will be lots of stickers on the car, we can cover up any really bad bits !
Even starting to fit the chrome trim etc again !
Once Easter is out of the way, hope to get the last bits finished off and the engine started. We are leaving the front shroud and wings off until the engine is is all finished and running as it is so much easier to work on while the shroud is off.
Hopefully the next report will have a photo of it driving down the road !!
Giles



https://austin-healeypekingtoparis2019.blogspot.com.au/
https://www.facebook.com/austin.healey.73113?


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PAN Avatar
PAN Alwyn Keepence
Ipswich, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Looking like an Austin-Healey, Giles! Great work.

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 200176 by PAN Looking like an Austin-Healey, Giles! Great work.

Thanks Alwyn. And not before time !! I can't wait to bring it out to a Healey gathering soon because it has a number of rather interesting and novel features which I really need expert Healey opinions on !
Giles



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NaDaDawgRacer John Jones
Waxhaw, NC, USA   USA
Giles
I like the “stone guard” protectors. That should cut down on carrying 15 pounds of extra debris on each side.
John

Qldelsie Silver Member Giles Cooper
Benowa, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Whoops. Anyone able to take a good photo of the rear shroud and also the front shroud between the dash and the windscreen of a 1954 100/4 and post it on here ? (Or car with same details).

I wasn't present when these two items were removed from our car, and all the fasteners removed, so I want to make sure I get all my tenax studs and other fittings for the roof and the windscreen back in the correct places !

Would really appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Giles



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