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Wizard Cooling Aluminum Radiators

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echan Ed C
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
Installed a new Wizard Cooling Performance Radiators https://wizardcooling.com/ in my Austin Healey 100. The build quality is great and would recommend this radiator over a no-name Chinese radiator. I had a few questions, and the company gave great support. They make aluminum radiators for all sorts of cars and I would use them again.

Ed

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Luegolover Avatar
Luegolover Steve L
London, London, UK   GBR
That looks lovely and I am a little envious but I was thinking of re-using my rad exactly as it is assuming it doesn't leak that is. Do new rads make much difference?

echan Ed C
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
In reply to # 197961 by Luegolover That looks lovely and I am a little envious but I was thinking of re-using my rad exactly as it is assuming it doesn't leak that is. Do new rads make much difference?

The Wizard radiator has better heat transfer. There was nothing "wrong" with my original radiator, but when I was in stop and go-traffic (I live near Mt. Vernon, VA near George Washington's home and when the tourist are there there's a lot of stop and go traffic), the car would over-heat as the temperature got over 190 degrees.

While I had the old radiator out, I installed a 12" Spal fan in front of the radiator. Clearance is so tight, I had to cut a slot for the frame weld to rest to allow the fan to sit a little lower. I also didn't want to drill any holes. So I used aluminum angle "iron" with 1/4" x 3" long stainless bolts with stainless tubes (as spacers) to hold the fan against the double crossmember.

I also added a 5 bladed fan I got from Healey Surgeons and made a deflector on the (right) non-carb side (figured the steering column and cold air duct on the other side didn't make it worth it on the right side.

I also have a louvered bonnet to let out more heat.

So with luck I won't be stuck beside the road this Summer!

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6328ALASDAIR Alasdair Reid
FENWICK, East Ayrshire, UK   GBR
I've found the biggest cause of overheating to be sediment build up in the Engine Block and Cyl. Head Water passages.

Each time I rebuild an engine I remove all the core plugs and clean, scrape, poke out all the passages.
The amount of ' Crud ' which can be removed is amazing.
I managed to fill a Pint Tumbler with the dry rust and sediment from a 100 Block. The head was extra.
I've even found old Core Plugs which have been pushed in rather than properly removed.
Add to that nuts and bolts and bits of casting wires.
If you can find a workshop which will do an Acid ( ? ) bath clean. Do it .

Similarly , the Radiator can become Gunged up
Flushing with a water hose will remove a lot of sediment.

With a 5 blade Fan fitted I've never had any trouble with overheating.
Even in traffic in our brief summer in Scotland.

Alasdair

Luegolover Avatar
Luegolover Steve L
London, London, UK   GBR
Thanks for those comments. I am trying to do this rebuild on a school teachers budget so I have to consider every bit of expenditure carefully. The chap I bought the box of bits (i.e. my car) off had rebuilt the engine but not fitted the core plugs which is a job nearing the top of the list of things to do; I'll have a little fish about before I fit them.

Cheers
Steve

echan Ed C
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
I bought the Spal fan on EBay because I didn't want to pay full price for a fan and was willing to search and shop around to get the best price ($55 with free shipping). I also have a MGA and BT7, both in need of restoration. My plan is to buy all the parts below retail by shopping on-line as much as possible...

6328ALASDAIR Alasdair Reid
FENWICK, East Ayrshire, UK   GBR
If you can, fit BRASS core plugs.
The steel plugs available in the UK are rubbish and corrode through in no time.

Alasdair

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Cali-100 Avatar
Cali-100 Janelle S
Alameda, CA, USA   USA
Hi Ed,

I just had a Wizard "Healey 100" radiator installed into my BN2 Nasty Boy. Wizard did a great job customizing for my unique needs. The workmanship is impressive.

I went with the Spal brushless and a complete shroud. It fit in front of the V8 without the need for a shorter water pump. My engine is pushed way back so we just made it. The modified original Healey rad did ok but the Chevy small block 400 certainly taxed the cooling system in traffic and hot days. I'm trying to avoid the louvers since I have stick with the rather rare aftermarket aluminum bonnet sans louvers.


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Michael Oritt Avatar
LUSBY, MD, USA   USA
Ed-

I just read your posts and am glad to hear of your happiness with the Wizard rad. Much as you describe your car's performance before the switch, my 100 is "challenged" by traffic on hot days though I have learned to tolerate the needle's going up over 190. I had my rad recored years ago but it is still brass, and I also run a five-blade BCS fan. I am going to contact Wizard as I plan to do a bit less racing and more Healey driving this season.



Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-12 10:25 PM by Michael Oritt.

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Janelle,

If you don't want to modify you aluminum hood, you might consider getting a stock hood that you can louver. The hoods would be relatively easy to swap back and forth, if you're experiencing overheating issues louvers really do make a difference.

Michael Oritt Avatar
LUSBY, MD, USA   USA
There's been a recent extensive string about louvering a hood over on the AH British Car Forum at:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?111913-Louvers



Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)

BobAH100 Bob Markovich
Patterson, NY, USA   USA
I'm about to install the same Wizard radiator as well as an uprated water pump (don't trust the County pump the previous owner installed). I too was impressed by Wizard's tech knowledge and the fact that the whole kit and kaboodle is made in upstate NY—not somewhere in China. Further, they explained that their two-row rad is actually better (counterintuitively) than the 3-row Chinese units as apparently the tubes are more robust and expose more coolant to the air with each pass.

QUESTION: I've heard that one of the AH 100 water-pump bolts is more like a stud (Whitworth, I assume) and can get stuck or stripped upon removal. I must also transfer the original wide-belt pump pulley from the old pump to the new, though this looks straightforward given the bolt and slotted keyway. Any hidden/unforeseen issues from other 100 owners on this procedure? Thanks in advance!

echan Ed C
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
In reply to # 199673 by BobAH100 I'm about to install the same Wizard radiator as well as an uprated water pump (don't trust the County pump the previous owner installed). I too was impressed by Wizard's tech knowledge and the fact that the whole kit and kaboodle is made in upstate NY—not somewhere in China. Further, they explained that their two-row rad is actually better (counterintuitively) than the 3-row Chinese units as apparently the tubes are more robust and expose more coolant to the air with each pass.

QUESTION: I've heard that one of the AH 100 water-pump bolts is more like a stud (Whitworth, I assume) and can get stuck or stripped upon removal. I must also transfer the original wide-belt pump pulley from the old pump to the new, though this looks straightforward given the bolt and slotted keyway. Any hidden/unforeseen issues from other 100 owners on this procedure? Thanks in advance!

I don't have any suggestion as I did not replace the water pump.

Ed

Michael Oritt Avatar
LUSBY, MD, USA   USA
Bob--

Because of the size/shape of the water pump casting there is a shouldered "Special Nut" that goes onto the bottom stud. Its extra length enables one to get a wrench on the flats, whereas the pump body will shroud a regular nut . I learned about this the hard way the first time I had to R & R the water pump: the previous owner had used a regular nut and with the engine in situ it was almost impossible to remove the lower nut. I think I had to score it and use a chisel to get it loosened.

Michael Salter sent me a couple of the "Special Nuts" and I actually use both of them as they are easier to manipulate and get to.



Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Austin-Healey 100 (street)
1958 Elva Courier (track) FOR SALE
1959 Elva MK IV sports racer (track)
1961 Ginetta G4 (track)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-11 08:53 PM by Michael Oritt.

BobAH100 Bob Markovich
Patterson, NY, USA   USA
Thanks for the confirmation! Will get a spare Special Nut for the water pump. That way, counting be, I'll have two! Again, thanks

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