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Basket Case 1960 Bugeye with Rust... Hell no.

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
More pretty stuff... and slowly getting this back on the ground.

Front end with new rack etc this weekend hopefully.

Parking brake was badly pitted so I just sanded it and got it powder coated satin. In AZ Chrome gets really hot.

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Moving forward, but some probably dumb questions as usual...

First up... the side window curtain rubber was like petrified wood, but the torch got it going and removed much easier

Second... I've got all new plexi, rubber etc for the side windows... but are these out of line "bumps in the track" normal... or just a result of abuse over the past 58 years?

Third... Replacing the front brake line to master and clutch line to master with steel lines, but the 72" is just short a tad. Do you normally have to buy the roll of line and mushroom the ends or is there a supplier with the exact length required?

Fourth... About to install the new rack I got and the brackets had ONE (1) of these spacers, but I don't remember another one. Anyone know why there is one or I'm just missing the other?

As usual... thanks for the feedback.


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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
George,

Only one Spacer and it goes on the Passenger Side. Be sure you replace the pinch bolt that connects the steering column and the Metal Nylock. The bolt IIRC is a hardened Bolt and needs to come from usual suppliers, order new metal Nylocks as well. Do not reuse the old bolt. This is not a part you want to fail on you. Hopefully you ordered new boots for the rack. And since you have it apart now about some new Tie Rod Ends to finish tightening up the front end.

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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
The "bump" in the track on the Perspex window was to stop the "fixed" Perspex
from moving. The front one is fixed. Later side screens for Mark 2 sprites had
both able to move. ie slide open. A lot of BE's will have the later type.
I use a hot green house to bend the new Perspex to fit. The rubber was originally
rather poor quality. I find it easier to start at the corner joint in the rubber and work
your way round pushing it in with a flat bladed screw drive. I would use a copper
or kunifer brake./.clutch pipes. Kits are available from Automec and usual
suppliers. Beware that front aluminium steering rack fixing bracket.
It has a very low torque loading 4-6lbs at most. They crack if overtightened.
One spacer. I have found cheap rubber gaiters on the steering rack can spilt.
Another example of poor quality parts.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
@ Jim.. Thanks for the feedback. Got the rack from Vicky Brit and it's from Argentina... ole.

Has the new boots tied down with zip ties which will be replaced with the original clamps this am.

Got the new tie rods a long time ago. The king pin kit had some cork gaskets that appear to go on each side of the king pin to keep grease under control.

Is that correct? If so... there is not enough room for all of that in the short space.

George



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-17 10:30 AM by BigGeorge67.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Westy... good info and thanks as usual.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Cork circular "gaskets" were originally fitted to the king pins. Where the king pin
meets the fulcrum pin. The Argentinian racks (?) . Now in the UK these are
Morris Minor racks but turned upside down. Morris Minors have a vast UK
spares network but suspect not common in US. Yes the dreaded tie wraps.
I use stainless steel Jubilee clips. Nyloc nuts are used in place of castellated
nuts. These are the nuts the split pin goes through. Nyloc nuts are often
in the King Pin replacement kit. They have a nylon insert and are used
once. You can only torque them once. The top nut on the king pin has
a torque loading. That is where the Nyloc nut will be placed in place
of the castellated nut.
Will look up my works manual re the torque loading
on the king pin top. Your kit should have little metal "spacers" for the
king pin. Also a sintered bronze washer. Also beware don't fit the
king pin the wrong way round. Common mistake. In the BE fraternity
we have all learned from our mistakes George. So just ask.

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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
My BMC manual shows a torque loading of 60 lb ft on the top nut of the king pin.
Also notes if castellated nut tighten up to fit a split pin. So nyloc would be 60lb ft.
Too few small shims and you get up and downward movement. Too many it is too tight.
Re steering rack. The BMC part no for Sprite LHD rack and Morris Minor RHD
rack is ACG6009. Sprite RHD rack and Morris Minot LHD rack ACG6010.
Beware the rubber gaitors. Some are as thick as rubber gloves! If they are thin
buy some thicker ones. There are standard stock items which are thicker on
sale in the UK in most motor spares shops. ie not specific to midgets and sprites

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Great info as usual.. When it comes to this car I seem to make mistakes all the time LOL.

Get me on a Rootes, or old Volvo or any muscle car... and I'm good, but this little guy keeps me guessing.

What exactly is on both sides of the fulcrum bolt that runs thru the A frame to hold the king pin assembly?

The kit was not specific and the cork rings are too thick. ??? A picture would be helpful.

On the rack.. I've got the original BE rack, but don't have the ability or knowledge to set it back up after I took it apart to for cleaning.

This "Argentina" rack picture is attached. Not wild about it... but it fit my diminishing budget well.

BG

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