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Aussie Sprite Rebuild

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Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Some photos of the A pillars spot welded together with captive plates and inner skin. I still have to trim the inner skin to match door edge, but I will do this once I get the front end together. I also still have to make up the outer panel that wraps over this panel.

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Bwana Avatar
Bwana John Joubert
Point Lonsdale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Who said car manufacturing in Australia was dead !! Your a one man industry Dan !!

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
When I replaced an A Post on my Sprite I welded in the Inner Skin and got everything aligned with doors before I added the outer skin. You may have issues if that outer skin has been welded on already. Course this was the first time for me doing this but not sure it's possible to install with outer skin on. Happy to stand corrected if indeed it is possible.

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Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 197148 by Bwana Who said car manufacturing in Australia was dead !! Your a one man industry Dan !!

Thanks John!!! I'm doing my best for the industry!!

Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 197193 by Jim Gruber When I replaced an A Post on my Sprite I welded in the Inner Skin and got everything aligned with doors before I added the outer skin. You may have issues if that outer skin has been welded on already. Course this was the first time for me doing this but not sure it's possible to install with outer skin on. Happy to stand corrected if indeed it is possible.

Thanks Jim,
Appreciate the advice, i will do it that way too i think. It would make it slightly easier to fix the inner as well without having to work around the outer.
Thanks for your help
Dan

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Trial fit, Trial fit. Trial Fit, paint stir sticks for shims, support door with Scissors Jack, do initial tacks, just a few, test fit again and again.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Years ago when I did my "A" posts and door hinges had problems with door adjustment/alignment.
Ended up putting a block of wood under the door at "B" post end and gently pushing the door
every so slightly up with a jack on the wooden block. Worked! What are you painting it with?
Are you using a phosphate wash/dip before painting? There was a process called Bonderising and
Mark 1 sprites had this dip process at pre paint stage, In the UK there are companies
who will dip and coat body shells.

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Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Hello Gents.
Hope everyone had a Happy and Safe Christmas and New Year. Thought I'd give an update on my Sprite rebuild as I haven't posted for a few weeks now. I've managed to assemble the front subframe of my Sprite and get all welded up over the last couple of weeks. Everything I have made new for it except the lower wishbone brackets which I bought from the UK. I made a simple frame to assemble and weld everything together on so it stays nice and straight/square. I decided to make new shocker/spring towers as mine had stripped captive nuts etc so I thought it would be better to make new ones. I managed to remove the springs mounts from under these brackets by drilling out the spot welds and then welding them onto my new shock towers. Everything turned out pretty good, it was a fiddly job making sure everything stayed straight and didn't move during the welding process.


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Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
All welding on the frame was Tig welding, it helped to keep distortion minimal. I did have to keep checking for movement. All in all its come out pretty good. I managed to get a coat of Etch primer on it last night, it was warm enough to dry the paint rather quickly!! Next job is to get the footwells and inner guards assembled so I can mount them on the subframe. It actually feels like I'm getting somewhere with it now!
Cheers
Danielsmiling smiley

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westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
I actually have an original BMC "H" frame. If you need any measurements let me know
Part No 28G118.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Daniel,
That is some beautiful work you’re doing!
Rut

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Are you using original parts to copy? Had a look at my "H" frame tonight. Its an original BMC and the
flat metal sheet appears to be 12 or 14 gauge. It is not seem welded all round. Just heavy tack welds.
I have thought of seem welding my own "H" frame if and when I ever need it.
Did you think of making your own wishbone supports out of heavier gauge? I have seen these rusted
out and also with welding given way. There was some thing on the site re repairing these.
Incidentally I have acquired a new BMC boxed steering column. Its a collapsible lockable one made
for the Sprite/Midget around 1969. It is marked AC/Delco in the box.

Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 198018 by westburn70 Are you using original parts to copy? Had a look at my "H" frame tonight. Its an original BMC and the
flat metal sheet appears to be 12 or 14 gauge. It is not seem welded all round. Just heavy tack welds.
I have thought of seem welding my own "H" frame if and when I ever need it.
Did you think of making your own wishbone supports out of heavier gauge? I have seen these rusted
out and also with welding given way. There was some thing on the site re repairing these.
Incidentally I have acquired a new BMC boxed steering column. Its a collapsible lockable one made
for the Sprite/Midget around 1969. It is marked AC/Delco in the box.

Hi Eric,
Thanks for your interest in my project and your kind offer of dimensions on the 'H' frame. All the components that I have made for my new frame have been matched to the original as I did have an existing one to copy off. All material thicknesses have been matched also. The original chassis rails and crossmember have all been fabricated from 1.2mm (.048"winking smiley cold rolled steel as per original. The components are mostly folded and spot-welded construction then welded together. I did think about making my own wishbone supports a bit heavier but I decided to go with originals as it was getting welded to the light gauge chassis rails and my car won't see much rain so hopefully the chances of it rusting will be minimal. In hindsight maybe I should have beefed them up but I'll see how they go. All the welding was copied off the original, some parts were just stitch welded which I did on mine. It looks fairly close to original as possible. The next step is to set up the front inner guards and footwells, I must say I'm really excited about getting that part done as it will resemble the front half of the car then! The lockable steering column sounds like a rare find? What sort of condition is your Bugeye in Eric?
Cheers
Daniel

Dantheman84 Daniel Alcorn
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 197991 by Perdido Daniel,
That is some beautiful work you’re doing!
Rut

Hi Rut,
Thanks for your interest and encouragement, much appreciated. It is addictive working on these cars!
Cheers
Daniel

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Hi Daniel;. My own Frog/Bugeye has had all the body work etc done. Its 95% ready to roll.
The problem in darkest Scotland-Its dark by 4pm-Its wet just now and last week we were at minus 8.5Deg C.
With about 3 inches if snow. They blast salt on the roads to thaw the ice! So corrosion is a
major problem in the winter. These cars are just giant Meccano type assembly jobs.
I keep thinking how to improve it as I go along. I made the inside sill out of galvanized
12 gauge. Its just a flat sheet you can cut. Plus other "wee" bits I used slightly thicker
steel mainly round the spring hanger area. The engine I put a double chain on, unleaded
plus a bottom pulley from a mini. Its got a rubber insert. Then we make mistakes!
Put the fuel tank sender unit in wrong way round! Did a lot of my own trimming ie door pockets etc.
I put the later Mk2/3 petrol tank in as my own original had corroded just where the long
filler neck meets the top of the tank. The rubber tube I think will help with any body
flexing in this area., Also the last few thousand BE had a better carb shield with a support
bracket to the body. Ashley Hinton sells them. Plus I used stainless nuts and bolts on
non load bearing bits like the rear bumpers, Had major problems trying to get a "good"
clutch. Set up a modified one man clutch bleeding affair with a brake line bolted
to a bracket on the clutch housing. So really been their done that made mistakes!
Watch some of the "new" stuff is not as good as the original parts ie rear 1/.4
elliptic springs, Hang on to your old ones. Plus BE fuel gauges. Brake light switches.,
I used a modified original VW Beetle one still available over the counter in my local
VW dealer

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