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oil leaking around the drivers rear wheel area

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patslattery PATRICK SLATTERY
Harrison, OH, USA   USA
66 sprite
Had car jacked up high on one side and now I have oil running out and contaminating all over the brake drum and pads, What caused this and any idea what entails to fix this mess

thanks

pat

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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Patrick,
The rear wheel bearings get their lubrication from the diff oil and when you jack up one side the oil runs out IF your seals have stopped sealing and/or the rear brake drum is not tight. There’s a paper seal and a big O ring that keep the oil in.
Rut

patslattery PATRICK SLATTERY
Harrison, OH, USA   USA
thanks you very much for your response

pat

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
You will need to jack things up level with jack stands. Parts will be needed along with a 1 7/8” socket to get off the big next that holds the rear axle in place. The DS is a left handed nut that loosens by turning clockwise and is torqued to 140 ft pounds. Parts needed.

1) 2 axle seals
2) 2 rear wheel bearings
3) 2 axle washers, the end of washer gets crimped up to keep large washer from rotating
4) 2 axle washers
5) 6 axle set screws, 1 goes in to hold each axle in place and 2 hold each drum tight - you can get same thread with an Allen Head on it at local True Value or Ace hardware, these seem to be a bit tougher than what comes from usual suppliers
6) tube of Hylomar a sealant that does not harden
7) set of brake shoes

Axles you will find are leaking between axle and axle hubs. A small flat putty knife will help open up the gap and you can work them out easily. Mark L or R and keep them separate.Take apart, remove brake rods cotter pins and drive out pins. Remove e brake brackets and 4 bolts you can get axle hubs to pop out with a small hammer and a large screwdriver inserted through the slot where the ebrake bracket fits.

Once hubs are out a hydraulic press is helpful to push out bearings and axle seals but a large socket can be used to drive out bearing. Axle seals are a challenge to remove but a shard screwdriver can be worked in and seals pushed out.

Clean up everything. Again some large 1”plus sockets with push in seal , be sure to remove the spring inside the lip of the axle seal before you drive into place. Once pushed home install the spring and then a well greased rear wheel bearing and drive it home.

Paper axle seals should be coated on rear side with a Hylomar, place over studs and cozy other side w Hylomar. axle pushed into place and secured with lug nuts, you’ll need 4 big nuts as spacers to push axle and hub together before you install the set screw. This is the key to keeping it from leaking.

I get to redo this job tomorrow night. Ping me if you have additional questions.

Ben M Avatar
I wouldn't go through all that work just yet (to replace the inner rear bearing seal). I'd just replace the paper seal and O-ring, like Rut said, and see if that cures it.

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Yes I agree but got too frustrated and punched out the sealed bearings and the axle seals already. I will be taking on that challenge tomorrow.

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
One side reassembled. Learned that those top sprigs appear to be L & R Handed. Once I swapped Springs all went back together very easily. 4 Large Nuts over/under the Lug Nuts as spacers allowed me to crank down tight on the axle / hub seal before I installed the set screw. I think that is the trick to getting a good seal. Now to start the PS and see if I can get that side done a whole lot quicker. Will let seals set overnight torqued down before I pull off the lug nuts and adjust the brakes. Bugsy will get driven tomorrow. Sunny and almost 50 predicted.

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