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Whitworth Thread Tap...

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Reassembling the front end and trying to clean up the threads on my A Frames for a Bugeye. This is the bolt that holds the king pin assembly.

it appears that the threads were slightly scalded during removal (rust), and now the new parts will not thread in easily and they should.

Not having any luck finding a 1/2" Whitworth or 5/8" Whitworth Tap to clean these threads up from anyone in our area.

Anyone have any suggestions or has dealt with this problem in the past.

Thanks

BG

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refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
I may be mistaken, but I don't think the threads are Whitworth. I think they are just BNF threads - same as SAE fine.

BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
I thought so also... but after visiting the local hardware store... none of the 1/2" or 5/8" fine would work.

An old timer with 50+ years in various British cars told me they are most likely Whitworth British.

I told him I didn't know the difference between Whitworth and Kenworth. LOL

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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
Solved.

Took the new bolt and some cutting oil gently working the bolt in slowly back and forth and it was almost like chasing the threads.

All good.

markb2107 Avatar
markb2107 Mark Bethel
Wigmore, Kent, UK   GBR
This may help in the futuresmiling smiley whitworth and UNF details



1957 Austin Healey BN4 100/6


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BigGeorge67 BIG GEORGE
TUCSON, AZ, USA   USA
That is excellent. Thanks.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Back in the late 1970s the UK MoD had one man whose job was "threaded fastners".
The UK MoD had 7 yes seven different thread systems on various bits of kit.
Whitworth on mostly pre 1950 stuff. UNF/UNC. Then metric and coarse metric.
The "coarse" metric was on some French stuff
BSP ie British Standard Pipe on oxygen bottle tops if memory is correct.
BA ie British Electric which on the BE is often what Lucas used.
In addition there could be found a "cycle thread"and an ACME thread. Yes dockyard accidents and other
accidents did happen due to wrong bits being forced onto threads.
The UK MoD had a workshop pocket booklet like that BMC chart.
When Britain went "Metric" around 1971 Ford for a time painted new metric
threaded fastners -red I think- while they used up vast stocks of UNF/UNC stuff.
Not everyone went "Metric" in the UK. Hence you will find to this day
;large notices on approached to bridges giving the size of permitted vehicle
in both metric and feet with the distance to the bridge given in yards!
Plus our milk is still delivered in glass one pint bottles with an odd metric
size on the bottle!

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
George,

This threads on the end of that A-Frame need to be totally solid with no slop and side to side movement on the kingpin. If there is any movement at all and also inspect carefully for cracks on the back side, throw these A -arms away and replace them. This is the biggest area of wear in the Front Suspension and there can be no slop of any sort here. Your front suspension rotates on those threads and slop here is magnified in bad handling once it is all together and on the car. Please opt for BM Heritage Parts, not the $99.00 Dung Fired Chinese A Arm Parts. Much more expensive but fit correctly.

westburn70 Eric Flack
Glasgow, Lanarkshire, UK   GBR
Some years ago a chap Barry King in the UK made better quality A frames. They had grease nipples at each end.
Plus an extra strengthening rib. Also they were welded rather than brazed. Beware reconditioned
ones. The cheapo ones are not worth buying as Jim notes!

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