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Rotisserie spindle height

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Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
I am getting ready to weld my rotisserie together. I'm using pictures from a lot of you one here but have seen no dimensions. I'm using the upright portion of HF engine stands. Right now as clamped together, I have 26 7/8" clearance between the center of rotation of the rotisserie uprights and the bottom horizontal bars that will tie the two uprights together.

Best I can measure from the center of the drive shaft tunnel its seems the car is 26 1/2" half width at the widest point. So based on this I "believe" the body will be able to clear the lower horizontal portion of the rotisserie and turn 360 degrees if need be.

Anyone have any better dimensions? I'm trying to keep it as low as possible.

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S1 Elan Kurt. Appley
Akron, Ia., USA   USA
You will want your center of rotation to be above the drive shaft tunnel for the right balance when you roll it over. I think you are cutting it too close.


Kurt

Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
Kurt,

Thats where I plan to center it. But no matter where vertically center for rotation, the issue will be the width of the car, not the height of the whole chassis. My measuring tape measurements put the car at 53" at the rear wings above the wheel arches. I will tape a plumb bob today and get accurate measurements.

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saaboat Bill Trench
South Salem, NY, USA   USA
remember, the diagonal of a rectangle is greater that the width.....

Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
Dang if I didn't forget that in my planning!

In reply to # 200539 by saaboat remember, the diagonal of a rectangle is greater that the width.....

Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
And you will find that with HF stands the body runs into the front wheel when you try to rotate and with wheel in place you are not 90 degrees upright vs the floor of your gagage.

Simple solution is to remove the front wheel / bottom of the T section. I used a piece of 12’ 2x4 clamped to the bottom of each engine stand with large U bolt clamps. I kept the board as down low as possible.

I also used about 12’ of electrical conduit on each side to keep the front and rear engine stands parallel to one another. Be sure and throughbolt the electrical conduit where you join 2 10’ sections together. Do’t count on that friction fit with a set screw to hold the outriggers together, place end of conduit in a vise and squeeze to flatten out each end. Drill and bolt together.

Bolted rear 2x6 through light sockets on each fender and front bolted to the radiator uprights. Need to create a space so from rails can rotate. I bolted 3 2x6’s together up front to give me sufficient clearance for the frame rails.

Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
Thanks for the pointers Jim. I cut, bent, then re-welded the uprights so that the spindle receptacle are parallel to the bottom T section and floor.

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
With the front leg in place youwon’t Be able to get a full 360 degree rotation. Although your solution will be much more stable. I also added larger locking wheels, bolted to a piece of 2 x4 and then U bolted to bottom ends of the T. I’d still
Add outriggers to stabilize the front and rear engine stands.

Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
When I get it done I'll post a description and pictures. I just started cutting and tacking. Made a couple of errors that required a tiny grind of a tack weld. I think I may have the
clearance issue solved. We will see tomorrow. I have to get ready for work tonight. Hopefully a slow night and I can get a full nights sleep and get on it tomorrow.

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BlueMax1 Avatar
BlueMax1 A G
?, ?, USA   USA
I can't give you any dimensions being that I've let someone use my rotisserie for their Fiat but, will post up some photos for ideas. Also you will need a bottom spar to keep the front legs from wanting to tilt up on you. I also drop the bottom spar close to the floor to give clearance during rotation.


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Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
AG, with that set-up are you able to rotate all the way over?

BlueMax1 Avatar
BlueMax1 A G
?, ?, USA   USA
Yes, I could rotate the car 360 but never needed to.


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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
When you put this back together lots of grease to reduce friction at the pivot points.

An overhead chain hoist hanging from the rafters got the rear end up in the air and several strong SIL's and Grandsons got the front end up in the air after a Holiday dinner. Other wise and engine hoist up front was going to get the other end up in the air. I love Blue Max's jig. Going to Bumper Mounts up front and Sprint Mounts in the back is the ideal way to do this. Much more secure. I just used lots of wood.


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Spritey Avatar
Spritey Silver Member Ian Cassley
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 200584 by Jim Gruber When you put this back together lots of grease to reduce friction at the pivot points.

An overhead chain hoist hanging from the rafters got the rear end up in the air and several strong SIL's and Grandsons got the front end up in the air after a Holiday dinner. Other wise and engine hoist up front was going to get the other end up in the air. I love Blue Max's jig. Going to Bumper Mounts up front and Sprint Mounts in the back is the ideal way to do this. Much more secure. I just used lots of wood.

Hi Jim,
Would this setup be OK with the front and rear suspension still in place?
Thanks
Ian

Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
I finished the main structure of my rotisserie. I used HF 750 Lb engine stands and drill stem for the base horizontal leg. Drill stem is cheap and abundant here in Texas, $27 for three 8 foot by 2 3/8 pipes.

I have made the rear support that connects through the rear light holes. I'll get pics of that tomorrow. I now have 29 1/4" of clearance between the center of rotation and the base interconnecting support, it will be plenty.


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