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Bugeye sheet metal

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Sammyd Bob huston
Boise, ID, USA   USA
Beginning to work on our 59 Bugeye - thinking about having the car dipped to remove paint - any thoughts? We also need the rear panel between the tail lights replaced - from about the middle of the license plate area down to the trunk floor - so far I only find this panel available at AHspares in the UK - does anyone in the US make this part?
Thanks

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Jim Gruber Avatar
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
Just buy from AH Spares. You’ll have in 2 days via DHL.

pixelsmithusa Avatar
Be aware that when chemically stripping a car, the chemical will usually (maybe always) remain trapped in the seams where panels lap and where it's particularly bad is along the fender beading. I know someone that spent over $12,000 in paint and bodywork (this was also around 30 years ago), and even though the finish on the car was absolutely beautiful, the chemicals continued to weep from the car and after a couple years it needed to be repainted again because it began to rust everywhere there was beading or lapped seams, i.e. engine bay. Maybe the car wasn't rinsed/neutralized well enough, but I'm skeptical about the process not causing problems down the road. Soda blasting is another option, but painting the metal if it hasn't been prepped right with have adhesion problems. I think media blast is a better solution, and if you can find someone that hs alternate media solutions, i.e. walnut shells as opposed to sand is a better, safer way to go. Others may have more experience in this area, but these are the impressions I have from people who have tried the other solutions that didn't work out well in the long run.



Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


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dkbmotorsports Avatar
dkbmotorsports david boutelle
hamden, CT, USA   USA
dipping is not a good idea at all.
years ago a customer had his Porsche 912 dipped before he brought the car to me for the body and paint work. no problem with them neutralizing the chemical they used but the problem comes with all the bare steel in the boxed in areas and the junk also left there.
between every seam is bare metal and there is no way to get any rust protection back between the seams and in the boxed in areas.
you also do not want to soda blast a steel bodied car there are a few reasons for this. the 1st one is your blasting off the pait but soda doesn't remove rust so your still left with rust to deal with. the 2nd problem is a few paint manufactures will not warranty there products if you paint a car that has been soda blasted. this is because it leaves a film/coating on the metal that does not really come off even with aggressive sanding.
in most cases plastic media or 001 sand is still the best option it will strip off the old finish and will also remove any rust and plastic body fillers.

Hemidavey Dave Rudziensky
Grosse Isle, MI, USA   USA
Has anyone tried that "dustless blasting process , it uses finely crushed bottle glass in a water/ rust inhibitor mixture?

dkbmotorsports Avatar
dkbmotorsports david boutelle
hamden, CT, USA   USA
yes twice for the dustless blasting thing liked it a lot.
both times the guy came to my shop and did the blasting in my back lot with no problems at all.
in fact i liked it so much i'm looking into getting one of there systems and opening up a place out on long island NY. and getting out of the restoration business here in CT. been doing this crap for 40 years and i'm burn out.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Bob,
Welcome to the forum! AHSpares is a great company to do business with and I have several of their products/parts on my Bugeye. The dipping process is controversial to say the least and there are some really high dollar restorers who use it with great success. The closest one to me was located outside of Jackson, MS and they dipped followed by several neutralizing washes and then had the car e-coated by the Nissan plant contractor also located in Jackson. This process leaves the body shell completely cleaned of any paint, filler, primer, rust, etc. and gives you an e-coat primer that goes into every nook, cranny, and seam. The cost for this process on my Bugeye was $2500, but the result was as good as it gets. This business has since gone to oven baking to remove everything but rust and it does a great job and they e-coat after and the cost is similar.
Since then I’ve used regular sand blasting, media blasting, soda blasting, and dustless blasting on various cars and old fashioned sand blasting by someone who knows what they are doing is at the top of my list. We’ve got companies who will blast, prep, and epoxy prime for $800 (Bugeye) to $1800 (TR4A) depending on the car without warping panels or otherwise damaging anything. A great place to find really good strippers in your area is to join the hot rod forums like the H.A.M.B....they will give you good advice.
Rut

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Sherr20 Avatar
Sherr20 Gold Member Jerry S
Belton, TX, USA   USA
I'm looking at having the dustless blast done here in Texas. The guy quoted about 6 hours to do it. He said $100 and hour, do not know if that is a good deal or not as he is the only one in the region doing it.

hpmowog Avatar
hpmowog Karl Keiger
In reply to # 201564 by Sherr20 I'm looking at having the dustless blast done here in Texas. The guy quoted about 6 hours to do it. He said $100 and hour, do not know if that is a good deal or not as he is the only one in the region doing it.

I was quoted $1300 to just do the cockpit, engine compartment, trunk and underside. I opted not to go forward. I would have jumped at $600.

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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
In reply to # 201565 by hpmowog
In reply to # 201564 by Sherr20 I'm looking at having the dustless blast done here in Texas. The guy quoted about 6 hours to do it. He said $100 and hour, do not know if that is a good deal or not as he is the only one in the region doing it.

I was quoted $1300 to just do the cockpit, engine compartment, trunk and underside. I opted not to go forward. I would have jumped at $600.

I think the best deal I’ve found for blasting is in the little town of Fairhope, AL...they blasted, welded in 10 frame reinforcements and powder coated a TR4a frame for under $300. I couldn’t wire brush/sand, prime and top coat everything myself for that, so there are still good bargains out there.
Rut


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dkbmotorsports Avatar
dkbmotorsports david boutelle
hamden, CT, USA   USA
In reply to # 201564 by Sherr20 I'm looking at having the dustless blast done here in Texas. The guy quoted about 6 hours to do it. He said $100 and hour, do not know if that is a good deal or not as he is the only one in the region doing it.

it's the average pricing for the dustless blasting . i had a MGB blasted and it cost me 600 for the hole car in and outside. the other car was a TR6 body and chassis that car cost me 1050 to do.
the dustless blasting uses a rust inhibitor to treat the bare metal your left with because it's using a water mixed with the glass media.
once you go to start your body work you will just sand it off with 180 grit.
i will then mix up a 2K epoxy mixed as a sealer and spray one coat of it over the area i'm working on and then do my body filler work over it. you can do your filler work over bare metal or over an epoxy primer either works good.

i do a number of TR6's every year and the guy that has been coming to my shop and doing the body and chassis for me would charge me 900 for the body and 400 for the chassis using sand. i could load the car up on my trailer and bring it to him and save some money but the time it takes for my to load and unload every thing and drive over and back to his place i just opt for him to come here.
good old sand blasting is always another good option over all the others. the down side is the dust you get from doing it when the wind is right it covers everything with dust in the back lot i have.

Sammyd Bob huston
Boise, ID, USA   USA
Thank you for all the input - sounds like dipping may not be the best option. I will do some more investigating on other methods - I think we have a dustless blasting outfit locally.

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
I dipped the Bugeye. Wont do that again.


Dipping seems to leave the metal in what I call a "high energy" state. You have probably seen metal where it seems to flash rust as soon as it dries? Just think of this inside all the cavities in the chassis.

This was left in the space between the quarter and the wheeltub.


What I WILL do is take all the bits, bobs and brackets that are not body and have them dipped. Cheaper and better than any other method of cleaning because it is batch-work with little labour from the supplier, not piece-work that is done sequentially as would be the case with sandblasting.

Pete



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-18 01:17 PM by NOHOME.

earthur44 Eric Miller
Redmond-Bend, OR, USA   USA
Just to add to media or sand blasting.. You want a pro in restoration doing that work because doing it without the touch can leave a wave in an otherwise smooth surface... doors and bonnet are especially of concern... each of these methods have their point counter points



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-22 10:51 AM by earthur44.

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 201793 by earthur44 Just to add to media or sand blasting.. You want a pro in restoration doing that work because doing it without the touch can leave a wave in an otherwise smooth surface... doors and bonnet are especially of concern... each of these methods have their point counter points

I will second and third this sentiment. I am currently wrapping up a Volvo P1800 ES project that incurred severe warping due to the idiot doing the blasting. The mechanism by which sand warps a panel ( NOT heat) make it very difficult to fix, requiring that you obtain and learn to use a shrinking disc if you want to have a chance.

The broad low-crown panels on the rear deck and bonnet are ripe for sandblast abuse if given to the wrong person. Ditto for the doors.

Pete

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