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start racing 6 cyl car

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RAHealey Jeff L
Lakeville, MN, USA   USA
Andrew


What I know is that the BJ7 & BJ8 hinges have an upper and lower. This would indicate that they have different dimensions. The BN4 -BT7 hinges are universal uppers are the same as lowers.

So you are using mismatched hinges that could possibly throw the gaps off.

I can not currently place my hands on some BJ7 or 8 hinges to see what difference there is.

I noticed there appears to be newer sills. The sills are welded to the outriggers and then the footwell side panels. The hinge pillars are welded to the footwell side panels.

If you do not have the correct and accurate chassis deflection when welding in the sills which sets the foundation for everything you then have problems.

I had a problem you were describing that the hinge pillars may have been installed at an incorrect angle. I removed them and corrected it with new ones.

Did you change in any way the pedal box attachment to the shock tower? If so this could have altered the front bulkhead placement.

There are a number of things to consider.

Have you mocked up the rockers in place to then see if there any issues with the aluminum trim panels that fit over the sills on to the rockers? This will show you if the height of the sill was correctly fitted.

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AxeHealey Andrew Grannis
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Jeff,

I believe the BJ7/8 hinges are different at the bottom because the hinge pillar is drastically different at the bottom. They have a kink that takes them forward. But, you're right, if the upper convertible hinge is different than an upper roadster hinge, that's another issue.

As for all of the new stuff...Every new bit of metal you see has been installed by me. The height of the sills was determined, as I was instructed by a knowledgeable local Healey guy, by the gussets or tabs that went from the top of the original sill (there wasn't much left) to the footwell side panels. Same thing for the rear. The next important part of sill installation, as I was told, is the length of the still forward of the front outrigger. 17 inches if I recall. That is correct also.

The hinge pillars were placed where my measurements of the old pieces told me to put them. They clearly seem to be in the wrong spot. That's either a knock on my measuring ability or on the craftsmanship of the guy who "restored" this car last. Either way - I've come to the conclusion that they are wrong. No amount of shuffling around the rear body panels is going to get it right.

As for the pedal box - yes. There wasn't much of a pedal box or footwell on either side. The passenger side needed just one patch done while the driver's side needed just about the entire thing replaced. Because of how well the shroud still fits on the cowl and everywhere else, I'm fairly confident that it's all good. I need to at least have a baseline to move forward.

The fenders meet the sills correctly and the rocker panels seem to end up in the correct place. I have not tried any of the trim pieces. I've taken the last few days to start getting everything front and back solidly mocked into place to see exactly what I'm working with.

I initially didn't put the engine and trans in because I intended to put the cage in now. My thought was that a 6 point cage would keep the chassis rigid and it would then not have the Healey flex once on its feet. Because the cage is not going in right now, I'm leaning towards putting the drive train in now.

I'm very much an amateur so this struggle is truly not unexpected, just a bit of a blow to my progress that was moving along so nicely. It's also a pain in the ass...

AxeHealey Andrew Grannis
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Doug - thanks so much.

I'm going to take careful measurements comparing my uppers and lowers to see if there is a difference.

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Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
I know everyone's either hard at work wrenching on their races cars, thinking about their race cars or working their days jobs to pay for their race cars.

Here's a great sidebar I hope all of you die-hards can enjoy......


wagonaire144 Avatar
wagonaire144 bill d
mequon, WI, USA   USA
Thanx, Doug! i needed that.... raining so hard the water is coming in under the big doors and thru window gaps in the shop. It could be worse, here in February i guess.
Just got rocker arms back from shot peeners, good progress on the crank mods. still waiting on mag/pressure/dimensional report on the head/block. More progress on the Studebaker, to make room for the Real Car.
bild

Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
I've battled over heating problems for a while, so I'm working on better air flow through the engine bay. I don't have rally fender vents as they weren't used in 1957. I've design a puller fan system to maximize the original style high performance aluminum raditaor I use and installed fender well vents to help air flow out of the engine bay. We'll see if this all helps when I hit the track this season.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-04 11:38 PM by Dougie.


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wagonaire144 Avatar
wagonaire144 bill d
mequon, WI, USA   USA
Doug,
i like the fan and shroud, and the louvers in the wheelhouse. The 100.6 we restored that Alan Barker raced had some really effective evac. ideas, to allow better cooling airflow.
He and his brother drilled and flared the bottom of the front wings, from the inside, to promote airflow, and they holed and spaced the hinge posts to allow trapped air stacked between the hinge panels and fenders to escape into the door openings. The leading edge of the doors were holed and flanged, to allow the air to get into the doors, and escape thru the interior. The sides/top/bottom of the radiator were sealed completely to the back of the front shroud, so all the air coming in the front went thru the rad. Their oil rad. was mounted on the RH side, just below the heater blower, and the airflow thru that area, then out of the bodywork, kept the oil temp. down to 230 degrees.

Pretty Smart Guys, those Barker brothers!
billd

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AxeHealey Andrew Grannis
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Doug - great work. Did you make the louvered panel for the wheel well or did you purchase it?

Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
In reply to # 199502 by AxeHealey Doug - great work. Did you make the louvered panel for the wheel well or did you purchase it?

I found a source that made them in the size I needed. I think he sold them through Ebay if I recall.

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AxeHealey Andrew Grannis
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Cool, thanks.

Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
I received two new upgrades for my current build this week, very satisfied with both. A custom billet crank from Marine Crankshaft and an NOS license frame for HSC.


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wagonaire144 Avatar
wagonaire144 bill d
mequon, WI, USA   USA
Doug,
THATS pure sculpture!! i love seeing new machine parts, before they're subjected to our wiles... they're so innocent!
Nice radiuses, nice lightening holes, and lots of bolt holes for flywheel attachment... good on ya, mate!!
I like the work provided by Marine... As all good/great shops, their backlog reflects their product. In the busy season, it takes a long time to get one of those. You are a patient, fortunate guy.
Do you have a date for the rest of the parts to come home? a target to get on the dyno? Then, a couple of test days to get used to the BIG POWER? all new lines, braking points...
Its a great process, getting it all into your head. Have a great time!!
billd

perk74 Avatar
perk74 Barry Perkins
Lenoir City, TN, USA   USA
Beautiful peice of art!

Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
Hey Zack -

How about some vids from your Bathurst race? We're still suffering some winter weather and all need a Big Healey racing fix?

Dougie Avatar
Dougie Doug Escriva
Portland, OR, USA   USA
Ok....I know we're all busy with our day jobs, so while Zack edits his awesome video kicking as# at Bathurst, here's a bone to chew on.


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