Spridgets List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Hal Faulkner" <(email redacted)>

OK, now with the differential out of the casing the remains of the broken
half shaft are visible there just inside the differential bearing. Can't
drive it out with a broom handle 'cuz the spider gears (or whatever the heck
they're called) are tied together with an axel that precludes doing this.
Also, I'm worried about scoring the inside of the differential bearing. Is
this a job for the machine shop? Or am I just being too much of a wimp? A
piece of steel rod could possibly be used as a drift punch to drive the end
clear of the bearing? It's pretty nasty, chewed up with all kinds of sharp
edges, and at the cost of replacing differential bearings, not to mention
the shimming necessary I'd rather not bugger the thing up.
I thing the shop is going to get the thing anyway to replace the pinion oil
seal, so it's only a minor concession on my part to let them do the other
part. I mean, "why deprive a professional of his livelyhood?"
I'm not really a member of the BFH school of auto repair

Thanking everyone in advance,

Hal

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "CHRIS KOTTING" <(email redacted)>

Hal -

I have done this job on an MGB diff, and it isn't as daunting as you think.
Take a long (4" skinny (1/8" drift and drive out the roll pin that holds
the pinion axle that's in your way. Remove axle and pinions. You can now
lift out the side gears that the ends of the axles fit into (and the end of
yours is still in). Remove the stub of the axle and reassemble.

While you've got everything out, replace the thrust washers for the pinions
and gears you removed. (No shimming required, because you're not changing
the relationship between the input pinion and the big drive gear).

Unless you have trouble getting the stub of the axle out, it's about 30
minutes, start to finish.

Chris K.

On Fri, 7 Jul 2006 10:25:02 -0700, Hal Faulkner wrote
> OK, now with the differential out of the casing the remains of the broken
> half shaft are visible there just inside the differential bearing. Can't
> drive it out with a broom handle 'cuz the spider gears (or whatever
> the heck they're called) are tied together with an axel that
> precludes doing this. Also, I'm worried about scoring the inside of
> the differential bearing. Is this a job for the machine shop? Or
> am I just being too much of a wimp? A piece of steel rod could
> possibly be used as a drift punch to drive the end clear of the
> bearing? It's pretty nasty, chewed up with all kinds of sharp edges,
> and at the cost of replacing differential bearings, not to mention
> the shimming necessary I'd rather not bugger the thing up. I thing
> the shop is going to get the thing anyway to replace the pinion oil
> seal, so it's only a minor concession on my part to let them do the other
> part. I mean, "why deprive a professional of his livelyhood?"
> I'm not really a member of the BFH school of auto repair
>
> Thanking everyone in advance,
>
> Hal
>
Multiple Sclerosis 150 Mile "Pedal to the Point"
(Yes, 150 miles on a bicycle. No, I'm not a masochist.)
Sponsor Me! -> tinyurl.com/f48lg

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Hal Faulkner" <(email redacted)>

Chris,

Looking at it it seems I need to remove the bevel gear assembly from the
pinion housing in order to do this, Then fold back the tabbed washers and
remove the bevel gear from the rest of the differential. Does this sound
right?

Hal

-----Original Message-----
From: CHRIS KOTTING [mailtoemail redacted)]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 5:50 AM
To: Hal Faulkner; Spridgets
Subject: Re: Removal of half shaft remains


Hal -

I have done this job on an MGB diff, and it isn't as daunting as you think.
Take a long (4" skinny (1/8" drift and drive out the roll pin that holds
the pinion axle that's in your way. Remove axle and pinions. You can now
lift out the side gears that the ends of the axles fit into (and the end of
yours is still in). Remove the stub of the axle and reassemble.

While you've got everything out, replace the thrust washers for the pinions
and gears you removed. (No shimming required, because you're not changing
the relationship between the input pinion and the big drive gear).

Unless you have trouble getting the stub of the axle out, it's about 30
minutes, start to finish.

Chris K.

On Fri, 7 Jul 2006 10:25:02 -0700, Hal Faulkner wrote
> OK, now with the differential out of the casing the remains of the broken
> half shaft are visible there just inside the differential bearing. Can't
> drive it out with a broom handle 'cuz the spider gears (or whatever
> the heck they're called) are tied together with an axel that
> precludes doing this. Also, I'm worried about scoring the inside of
> the differential bearing. Is this a job for the machine shop? Or
> am I just being too much of a wimp? A piece of steel rod could
> possibly be used as a drift punch to drive the end clear of the
> bearing? It's pretty nasty, chewed up with all kinds of sharp edges,
> and at the cost of replacing differential bearings, not to mention
> the shimming necessary I'd rather not bugger the thing up. I thing
> the shop is going to get the thing anyway to replace the pinion oil
> seal, so it's only a minor concession on my part to let them do the other
> part. I mean, "why deprive a professional of his livelyhood?"
> I'm not really a member of the BFH school of auto repair
>
> Thanking everyone in advance,
>
> Hal
>
Multiple Sclerosis 150 Mile "Pedal to the Point"
(Yes, 150 miles on a bicycle. No, I'm not a masochist.)
Sponsor Me! -> tinyurl.com/f48lg