The 3000 Forum
Replacing rear axel bearings
Posted by Lola57
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Leyburnhealeyman
Stan P
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Oct 12, 2018 02:32 PM
Joined 7 years ago
210 Posts
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Hi all,
Been watching this thread for a while, when suddenly while out driving I somehow found I have two sheared studs and one that had fretted free on the spline in the hub. Easiest way round all this for me I felt was new hubs both sides, before that gives up as well. Thank goodness for rechargeable power tools,no power in my garage, had to do some drilling to split the nut on the fretted stud and another seized one, despite being assembled with thread lubricant , but the was a few years back. Bought a 56mm socket, and a very cheap set of three hub/bearing pullers off ebay, and now in the process of fitting up the new hubs with seals and bearings.
So now for a couple of tips, as the socket is a little looser than a 2 3/16 and easily jumps off the nut, having removed the halfshaft replace the splined hub over the socket to prevent almost all end movement then work the socket through the splined hub, easing as you go on the splined hub nuts until the hub nut can be turned by hand. If you have new lock washers , flatten the old ones as they are considerably dished, and that is no help to keeping the socket on!
Once the nut is off, if you don'e have a hub puller or slide hammer, refit the half shaft in reverse withe minimum amount of nut on the studs, and hey presto, a built in slide hammer, not much movement , but it will work.
Been watching this thread for a while, when suddenly while out driving I somehow found I have two sheared studs and one that had fretted free on the spline in the hub. Easiest way round all this for me I felt was new hubs both sides, before that gives up as well. Thank goodness for rechargeable power tools,no power in my garage, had to do some drilling to split the nut on the fretted stud and another seized one, despite being assembled with thread lubricant , but the was a few years back. Bought a 56mm socket, and a very cheap set of three hub/bearing pullers off ebay, and now in the process of fitting up the new hubs with seals and bearings.
So now for a couple of tips, as the socket is a little looser than a 2 3/16 and easily jumps off the nut, having removed the halfshaft replace the splined hub over the socket to prevent almost all end movement then work the socket through the splined hub, easing as you go on the splined hub nuts until the hub nut can be turned by hand. If you have new lock washers , flatten the old ones as they are considerably dished, and that is no help to keeping the socket on!
Once the nut is off, if you don'e have a hub puller or slide hammer, refit the half shaft in reverse withe minimum amount of nut on the studs, and hey presto, a built in slide hammer, not much movement , but it will work.
about 6 years and 6 months later...
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BJ7L24823
Greg Flanagan
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May 7, 2025 11:45 AM
Joined 11 years ago
6 Posts
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BJ7L24823
Greg Flanagan
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May 7, 2025 01:39 PM
Joined 11 years ago
6 Posts
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rusty1c
Peter D
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May 7, 2025 03:06 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 11 years ago
2,208 Posts
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bug eye racer
gregory kozuhowski
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May 7, 2025 04:28 PM
Joined 12 years ago
304 Posts
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make sure u torque the nut to the proper torque . if u can pull the bearing off easily the the stub axel on the rear housins is worn . the reason for the proper torque is that if u tighten the nut too much u will streach the threads. if u are driving and the nut comes loose then th whole wheel hub and axel releases from the rear housing. be careful not to damage and inspect everything before u put it back together. regards greg kozuhowski k &k racing and restorations working on british cars since "1962" p.s. arent british cars fun to work on.
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