The Sprite Forum

My son’s timing cover leaks at the gasket. I think the seal is okay but not the gasket. My plan is to remove the cover and replace the gasket and I figure I might as well replace the seal while I am at it. I know that I should reinstall the crank pulley before tightening down the cover to center the seal on the pulley and I think the pulley nut is tightened to 70 ft lbs. I ordered a new locking washer and I also ordered the outer reinforcement piece for the lower portion of the cover.

This looks like a pretty easy and straightforward job, but in my experience those kind of jobs almost always morph into something more complicated. The good news is that the engine is not in the car.

What kind of sealant is recommended for the cover gasket so that I am absolutely assured of no leaks - hah ha!

I can’t find a torque figure for the timing cover mounting bolts to the engine - is there a recommended torque?

Anything I am missing? Any tips/recommendations from those who have done this little job?

Thanks as always!
Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/

It's not a difficult job.

Which gasket sealant to use depends on the type of gasket. Since gasket material runs the gamut from thick and squishy to rock hard and thin, there is no one answer. Ideally, it would only take a thin smearing of Gasgacinch, which almost disappears when dry so it's nearly undetectable.

Here is a list of types of sealant I have on hand for use with paper gaskets.
- Gasgacinch
- plain ol rubber cement
- Permatex High Tack
- Threebond 1211
- The Right Stuff black RTV

I put them in order of ideal situation to last resort. If the gaskets are that cheap blue paper, I'd give them a thin coating of Threebond or RTV, but if they are better quality tan paper, a heavy coat of Gasgacinch will do. I suppose one could use Copper spray coating on the gaskets too.

For bolt torque, a general bolt torque chart is handy. 1/4-28 bolts going in dry can take 12-15 lb/ft of torque, and 5/16-24 can take 30 lb/ft. If they get lubricant, the torque values get cut in half.

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New business website coming soon
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Perfect. Thank you Matt! I will check out my gaskets - I think I have two - and see what we have.
Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/

Hi Lin, I grabbed the attached document from these forums and have it stuck on my garage wall. I'm sure it's topped me being too ham fisted at times. Good luck, David.

Thanks, David! Very useful.
Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/

Lin, don't tell me you found that leak with the engine running on the engine test stand.

Hmmm. Maybe that engine test stand was worth all the trouble

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Specialization is for insects.

I second the recommendation for Permatex...great stuff. I like Permatex Black Ultra...cheaper than Right Stuff but the cure time is longer (overnight). The key is to apply the stuff, then put cover in place and snug the bolts; then after it's set up a bit, apply full torque to the fasteners. I forget how long you wait, but it's in the instructions.

I was never all that comfortable with using these products alone; prefer to use them as a gasket dressing on both sides.

When I reassembled my 1098 and ran it for a while, I thought it had developed a timing cover leak, when in fact it was a leaking cork gasket on the tappet cover...the oil would drip down and migrate forward along the block flange, and then to the low point on the cover. Fortunately you won't have that issue on a 1275!

I use ultrablack rtv on the timing chain cover. Generally, just a light smear on the engine plate side, but a small bead on the side of the cover since the stamped cover is typically less "flat". yes, snug it with pulley in place to locate it. let it cure overnight. then final torque the next day.

Thanks for the sealant suggestions. All appreciated.

Dean, we knew about the leak before the engine came out of the car. With the engine now on the stand it will be much easier to fix the problem. With the engine on the stand I will be able to run the engine and determine if I was successful in fixing the leak the first time. If I failed and need to pull the cover again, it will be much easier to tend to now before the engine is back in the car. Of course, the car has no other leaks at all. Hah ha. And, I never fail the first time!!!

We are going to try switching to a single HIF44 from the twin HS2s that have been on the engine. Nothing wrong with the twin SU's got them on my 3000 and they are tuned perfectly. That said, it will be nice to not mess with synching carbs. Lots of Minis out there with single carbs. It is all an experiment perhaps driven by boredom and fun more than anything.

I am also a little suspicious of the condition of ring gear teeth. I am going to run it with the gearbox on it and switch between the Lucas starter and the gear reduction high torque starter and then depending on what I find (or hear) I may pull the gearbox.

Here are a few images of what I did. I used some photos of what someone else had done as a guide. Big Healey ignition switch, starter button, and starter solenoid were used. Front engine mount from Bugeyeguy. Engine driven fan is pulled just using the electric fan while on the stand. Waiting on the Maniflow Intake from Jet-Hot then we can pull up the fuel can, hook up the exhaust, put in some oils and coolant and see where we are. All electrical circuits have been tested and work properly. Of course final adjustment will need to be made when the car is under load but hopefully we can get close before we put the engine in a freshly painted body - which will be a while yet. Cheers! Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/

I like the leak test before installation idea!

My 0.02......

What happened to good ol "Aviation Form a Gasket". Been around forever and still great. Avoid silicone in almost all places and Threebond fits lots of applications in particular no gasket metal to metal sealing,

Kurt

I am planning to use Gasgacinch. Got a can in the cabinet and I have liked its results in the past. Kurt, just curious, what is the objection to silicone based upon?

Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/

Nice stand. Looks like you put it together with Legos.

Do you have a spare driveshaft? You'll need a slip yoke to stuff in the rear of the trans when you run it.

Gasgacinch is my go-to sealer. Kurt might be worried about how RTV tends to squish into places it doesn't belong.

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New business website coming soon
Instagram - @mstoffregen

Hi Matt,
Always loved Legos. Built lots of structures with my kids many moons ago. I was just trying to use the wood I had laying about rather than buying a bunch of stuff.

I have an extra driveshaft with yoke, and I have an extra yoke. I haven’t done this before, so tell me more. I don’t plan on shifting any gears, but I guess when the engine starts the shaft in the gearbox will spin won’t it? And, if the shaft is going to spin then I definitely need to have oil in the gearbox. And, if I am going to have oil in the gearbox then I definitely need to have the yoke on the shaft or the oil will come leaking out the rear - right? How fast will the shaft spin? Will the yoke stay in the end of the gearbox?

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!

Lin

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1959 AN5 Bugeye - now with my son - oops, back with me for a while
1960 BT7 3000 MKI

https://valvechatter.com/



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-09-15 11:38 AM by MK2.

Just giving you a hard time. Stand looks great.

Yes, I'd put oil in the trans because even in neutral, the front input shaft will be spinning. With the yoke in the tailhousing, you can run through the gears. I do it with mine. But, unless we devise some way to keep the yoke in, there is the possibility that it could vibrate out.

I keep meaning to take pics of my setup. I'll do that right now. It's similar to yours, just made out of metal.

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New business website coming soon
Instagram - @mstoffregen